Author Topic: Cleaning brightwork.  (Read 5453 times)

robgee

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Cleaning brightwork.
« on: 27 July 2006, 02:47 AM »
I think I remember reading on the forum some time ago about cleaning the aluminium brightwork around windows etc.I actually tried something not from the automotive area but it was actually shower or bathroom cleaner as most bathrooms have quite a lot of polished aluminium and it did a great job (no dulling or scratches) so maybe this is the most cost effective answer.
Regards,
Rob.
2005 Holden Monaro
looking for another 450

AMG69

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Re: Cleaning brightwork.
« Reply #1 on: 27 July 2006, 04:10 AM »
What was the product???
sigh....sitting back contemplating the next purchase..!

robgee

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Re: Cleaning brightwork.
« Reply #2 on: 27 July 2006, 05:55 AM »
The name of the product I am presently using is called Home Master muti purpose bathroom cleaner.
Manufactured by Auskem laboratories Pty. Ltd.
Wetherill Park.
NSW. 2164.
Phone (02)9725 5844.
Fax     (02)9725 5848. So its also Aussie made.
2005 Holden Monaro
looking for another 450

cipha

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Re: Cleaning brightwork.
« Reply #3 on: 27 July 2006, 07:52 PM »
I spoke with the bio-chemist at Auskem to inquire about the product and potentially any adverse affect on the paintwork and other surfaces.

The active agent is Sulphonic Acid, neutralised with Sodium Hydroxide.  Thus resulting in a Ph 7 [neutral].

Cleaning agents are mainly Sodium Luryl Ethylsulphate and Methylated Spirits.

So, if it cleans great... and it can't hurt either!

oscar

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Re: Cleaning brightwork.
« Reply #4 on: 28 July 2006, 01:00 AM »
It's funny how the constituents of some special purpose cleaners with promising claims contain simple chemicals.  I bought Alushine by Chemtech earlier in the year without any succes on my anodised aluminium.  A friend of mine said it was just phosphoric acid ie killrust.  Didn't stop me from trying it.  Someone a while back suggested WD40.  Didn't work for me.

Looks like I'll have to try this Home Master stuff if I can find it.
1973 350SE, my first & fave

Denis

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Re: Cleaning brightwork.
« Reply #5 on: 31 July 2006, 10:38 AM »
Hi fellows

This is a serious issue. I am not pleased at the W116's inability to shine like a W108/109  :(
The W126 had the solution : take the shiny stuff off  >:( but then the "shiny" that is left shines more easily than on the W116.

Is anyone willing to take up research on this ? You see, I, for one, have taken up pionneering research on the Megasquirt  ;D and it would be fun for others to do this kind of thing also. Indeed many of you did just that ! It would be nice to show it up on this site.

I can have my W116 chrome plated of course...but

Denis

Paris, France

Note : I tried a few french products thinking that our superior intellect would overshadow anglo-saxons but alas, it is not so  :-[

robgee

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Re: Cleaning brightwork.
« Reply #6 on: 31 July 2006, 04:43 PM »
Vive La Difference!! Denis, you can't have it always you've got Liberté, Égalité, Fraternité! what more could you ask for.
Regards,
Rob.
2005 Holden Monaro
looking for another 450

john skene

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Re: Cleaning brightwork.
« Reply #7 on: 08 August 2006, 03:48 PM »
HI all, posters to one of the USA lists recommend the use of Casey brand "Tru-Oil" which is made for redoing timber gun stocks. Supposed to get rid of the cloudy look for 12 months and give an 'as new' sheen. I have yet to try it, but  shall post the results when I do.

s class

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Re: Cleaning brightwork.
« Reply #8 on: 10 August 2006, 12:51 AM »
guys,

The infamous cloudy look - I think I'm right in assuming that its due to oxidation of the aluminium?  If this is the case then some buffing to remove the oxidation layer should work.  I have a lot of W116 trim at home from donor vehicles, a lot of it very cloudy.  Perhaps this weekend I will see what happens when it meets with a buffing wheel mounted in my table saw. 

THis will remove a microscopic layer of material, and presumably restore the shine, but my concern is the long term effect.  Is the trim just "naked" aluminium, or did it originally have some sort of protective coating?

Ryan

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OzBenzHead

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Re: Cleaning brightwork.
« Reply #9 on: 10 August 2006, 06:23 AM »
my concern is the long term effect.  Is the trim just "naked" aluminium, or did it originally have some sort of protective coating?

Ryan: And rightly so - the original finish was anodised.  Polishing out the cloudiness will give very short-term results, as the exposed aluminium will re-oxidise.  I have read of various sealers such as Zoop Seal ( http://www.zoops.com/zoopseal.asp ) but have no first-hand experience of it.

s class

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Re: Cleaning brightwork.
« Reply #10 on: 10 August 2006, 07:31 AM »
Ah,

Adonising - of course it won't be as simple as I hoped.  But you've given me an idea.  Surely I can buff out any scratches and imperfections and then have it re-adonised?  Maybe it might not be too terribly expensive, certainly compared toreplacing the trim.

On a related note, has anyone ever had bumpers re-chromed?  It sounds appealing but all the re-chromed bumpers I've seen (other cars as well, not just benz) look good from 10 feet, and are somewhat disappointing close-up. 

Ryan

Gordon - haven't forgotten about scratching through back issues of In Aller Welt for you - just suffering from living with a 2-month old child and well, yes - bit tired.....

'76 6.9 Euro, '78 6.9 AMG, '80 280SE, '74 350SE, '82 500SEL euro full hydro, '83 500SEL euro full hydro , '81 500SL

OzBenzHead

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Re: Cleaning brightwork.
« Reply #11 on: 10 August 2006, 07:51 AM »
Gordon - haven't forgotten about scratching through back issues of In Aller Welt for you - just suffering from living with a 2-month old child and well, yes - bit tired.....

Ryan:  Been there, done that - and came to the conclusion after far too many consecutive nights of lost sleep that any parent, no matter how loving, is potentially a child basher - especially at teething time!  Thank the gods that's 30 years ago - and that I didn't (if only just!) quite lose control.

Take your time, friend.  I'm snowed under with work, and the 116 book project is, for the time being, merely "spackle" - i.e. a gap filler.  There is so much material already to sort through, and I've hardly started on the M-B digital archives.   :)

oscar

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Re: Cleaning brightwork.
« Reply #12 on: 10 August 2006, 08:16 AM »
Surely I can buff out any scratches and imperfections and then have it re-adonised? 

On a related note, has anyone ever had bumpers re-chromed? 


I was going to bring up reanodising.  I asked a few questions on this in the mbcnsw forum as this fella had his  300ce's coloured anodised strips redone.  I found a few links and posts re others in Sydney at least of shops that chrome and anodize.  I didn't save any as this is a distant project but reanodizing is a possibility.  My only concern is that some pieces especially around the windscreen are physically marked that buffing wont help.  Someone replacing the windscreen in the past was less than carefull when removing the trim. 

I have also seen the 3 rear bumper parts of the lower rear euro bumper appear on Ebay Aus ages ago and were listed as rechromed, old stock.  So rechroming is a possibility too.They looked fantastic, but as you say Ryan about looking good from 10ft away.  My car's a perfect example of how 10ft does wonders for appearances. :-[

Regarding rechroming, why can't the aluminium be chromed?  One shop I came across said they could chrome anything including metals and plastics.
1973 350SE, my first & fave

oscar

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Re: Cleaning brightwork.
« Reply #13 on: 11 August 2006, 07:02 PM »
Hey look, I finally managed to bookmark something ;D

This shop sells DIY kits.  It's aussie but there's bound to be others around the world.

Of most interest is the ability to use copper plate to build up scratches etc, buff, then rechrome all by your lonesome. 

http://www.eplate.com.au/index.htm click "products" then "electroplating products"
« Last Edit: 11 August 2006, 07:04 PM by oscar »
1973 350SE, my first & fave