Am I Ready For Concourse ?

[rumb]

Car looks great!

Brake pedal pad and gas pedal are inexpensive improvements.

The tube coming out of the firewall to the left of the brake master, is that suppose to have a hose connected to it that directs the water down?

[Peter]

The work completed went basically as follows; started with an very good 3 owner Embassy car that was in original condition apart from a parts list of approx 60 items.

For roadworthy I needed a windscreen as the original 37 year old screen was still in place but was badly pitted, fortunatley the seal was in very good condition. Then went about getting the engine bay up to spec, all decals replaced ( 1 to follow for the Tempomat) new air intake hose from Germany - not easy to source and I think I got the last one in MB stock. Has a problem with the 6th cylinder not firing and after plugs, injector orings and seals, dissy cap and a few other items I found it was the lead to cylinder 6 that had shorted. All replaced and running well although I felt as though it was a little sluggish on acceleration, after much inspection I found that the throttle shackle bushing was slightly worn. What a difference replacing that shackle made, sucha small item and and easy replacement job and it's like having another 20 horse power. Replaced the hood lining and happy with how that came out. Replaced the shield under the rear exhaust manifold, new battery and corrected some of the vac lines and joiners. Sourced a deflector for the bonnet, NLA so had to scrounge the wreckers to find one, replaced the aircon dryer boot, that part and a few others came all the way from Ukraine. Finally found the large seal/rubber for the top of the bulkhead and the guys and MB Spares in Canberra helped with that and its excellent for a second hand part. A few other grommets, seals and rubber parts and I was almost there. Then set about cleaning and detailing the engine bay - I swear I have taken the equal of one fat person worth of dirt, grime and 37 years of much out of that engine bay but under all that was a mighty fine piece of machinery.

The interior was the stand out part of the car, it was excellent condition apart from a few small fixes, the chrome door handle surrounds had started to delaminate on two handles so NOS was sourced and replaced, then found that the rubber boot from the A pillar to the front door has split and that was easy to source but a bugger to fit. Sourced and fitted a Becker Europa radio, which according to the 1979 owners manual was one of the options available. The dealer has originally fitted an aftermarket radio and a cheap antenna, and they fitted the antenna on the front which is annoying, the regulations did not allow this in 1979 as far as I can determine so not sure how that came about. A new Herschmann was fitted and then I set about trying to adjust the alignment of the glove box, its within 2mm now so I will leave it alone and be happy with it before I break something. The carpets just needed and clean and detail and they look as good as the day they left the factory. A few trim items needed replacing and the rear parcel shelf screws, all readily available and an easy enough job once you get your head around the German way of doing things.

Body work was very good, only one small panel below/behind the passengers door had deteriorated so it was off to the paint shop and two cartons of beer later it was a good as new. The front grille was an adventure, if i had my time again I would have held out for a NOS assembly however I didnt have that amount of time so I purchased a new grille plastic, all the genuine chrome strips and the plastic keepers and an afternoon of frustration later it was back together and looking perfect. Then the biggest expense was having the dent man do his thing, I hunted high and low for the best guy in the state and through recommendations from many came up with the right guy. Only 9 denst and all small but in difficult places to fix - this guys was a star, he knew his buisiness and 3 hours later the panels are as near to perfect as can be.

The dreaded underside then followed, it was good condition but the rust/sound deadening material had started to give way so reapplied that, replaced the exhaust clamps with the correct MB clamps, that was another bugger of a job as I had to split the exhaust as thats the only way they will go on. The previous owner had spot welded the joins where the pipes go together so after some delicate cutting it was all back together - not my best work I might say!! however I will clean it up before Concourse and make it more presentable. Another dozen or so parts were replaced and the car now only needs a fully detail and shine before the big day.

Much of what I have done and sourced is a result of the information and contributions of everyone here on the fourm, great info and good people have got this car to the condition its in. I firmly belive that we dont in fact own these beauties, they own us or a least we are only custodians of the incredible engineering and hopefully this car will last another 40 years. 

[daantjie]

Very nice indeed well done!
+1 on the genuine Benz battery it will really make the engine compartment pop

[floyd111]

OK, I'll have a go, after the obligatory compliments about this rather immaculate car..
Mildly sagging glove compartment lid
Deformed door check rubbers
Spare wheel holding bracket seems rusty (could be the light)
Are you supposed to have an MB star in your floor carpets?

What I couldn't see clear..
Are the original spark leads not supposed to be blue? (I was told)
Are your front doors door cards not slightly cracked at the rear bottom?
Do you have the spare bulb box, spare fuse box, fuse remover tool and era-correct jack?
Do you have the Bellino manual? What about original paperwork? is that important? First 1000 miles card, tempomat manual, era-correct manuals, other than the direct car papers?
Tank flap sticker? Electric window switch chrome condition?

Please be so good and send us photos from the contest!. Your car with judge-report, and some pics of other amazing cars there!
Hope you win!

[daantjie]

Maybe see if you can clean out the brake fluid reservoir. Fluid looks very black and it should be clear.

[Peter]

Many thanks for the kind words gents, Zaxxon & Rumb, well spotted on the brake pedal rubber and I will order a new one along with the accelerator pedal rubber.  Rumb, I am not sure either on the hose that fits to the pipe left of the brake master cylinder, can anyone advise? Daantjie hows things in Vancouver, love your city fella and hope to be back there one day soon - the genuine battery is $350 here in Brisbane, i'll see what I can get one for interstate. The dealership/stealership here in Brisbane is a money making machine for the owners. I priced a genuine windscreen............$3600.00 WTF and that didnt include the rubber or fitting. Agree that a genuine battery will make a big difference so I will go hard on that. Hi Stan - yes I tried for original leads however they were not available at the time, all door cards are in perfect condition so it might just be a lack of photographic abilities on my part. I have an original tool roll with original plastic bag and the spare fuse box with fuses, no spare bulb box  , The floor mats must be removed for Concourse and in one of the photos there is detail of the quality of the original carpet on the drivers side, its spot on thankfully. I have most of the goodies that go in the glove box, the original plastic envelope, the manuals, first 1000 mile card but dont have 2 cards i.e. the tempomat/cruise control card or the other one (can't think of it atm). Tank flap sticker, do you mean the fuel tank filler cap sticker, in which case mine is very good condition, electric window switch chrome is all good, again it might be the photo quality.
Daantjie - again well spotted on the brake fluid reservior, it worried me a little but the fluid has been replaced so its just a case of the plastic going a little transparent over the years. I was shockedd at the price of a new reservior however if you know of one at a good price please let me know, thanks all and keep the info coming.

[UTn_boy]

In addition to what the others have stated. the only other few things I see at first glance that will likely cost you some points are:

1)the A/C compressor.  The one you have on is painted black.  To be cosmetically correct, it should be unpainted showing nothing but the aluminum....complete with a YORK tag on the front of it.

2)I don't see original hose clamps used throughout.  Having a mix is grounds for points being taken off.

3)The smaller decal on the fan shroud should be on the radiator, not the fan shroud.  You can see where it's supposed to go on top where the depression is in the top tank. 

4)You seem to be missing the black plastic cover that goes over the top of the distributor cap.....but this gets kind of tricky.  If you have an M-110.983, then your distributor requires the top cover.  If you have an M-110.985 engine, then it is not required, as the later style distributor caps come with an integrated cover that slides completely over the cap itself.  Since both early and late style distributor caps will physically fit and work, I can't be sure if you have the correct distributor cap or not. 

5)I see you used a plastic heater valve.  In light of the fact that they seem to no longer be available, it'll have to work.  So if points are taken off for that, then enlighten the judges of that fact. 

You're so close. This is one of my favorite colors, too!  This is the way to restore.  No holds barred, and no expense spared.  Do keep us abreast of the progress and the final results of the judging.   

[rumb]

The work you did to clean up the engine bay is amazing.  It is all so very clean.

I didn't see any photo's of the door handles, if the rubber gasket is worn like so many, replacements are very inexpensive and they only take a few minutes to replace, plus you can then grease the mechanism, which makes opening the doors so much more enjoyable.

[floyd111]

Again.. you gotta love the OEM fashionista on this forum.
All you gotta do is ask to bring out of the woodwork!
- Aaron may need therapy, though..

[UTn_boy]

Stan, I'm far past the point of therapy doing any good.    What I need are body guards.  After having quitting judging over two years ago, I still have a lot of people that would love to get rid of me.  I guess because i was the reason they didn't win anything at a concourse judging. At one event, I docked this fella a whole point because he had Chrome plated bundts on his W108, and because he had Euro headlights up front, but still had the U.S. spec lighting in the rear.  It was a perfect car in every other aspect.  He actually tried to hit me afterward.  He was restrained, but as he was being drug away, he said he'd make sure that I wouldn't ever see the light of day again.  That was shortly before I quit.  The straw that broke the camels back was when I figured out that most, if not all, of the Concourse events here in the U.S., like Pebble Beach, Jekyll Island, and Boca Raton, are all corrupt.  The winners pay the judges and host off "under the table", and any judging is pretty much a waste of time.  I, too, was bribed......I just said no thanks, and immediately left.  I've never been back.  However, i did discover a pleasant concourse event this year in Shelton Vinyards, NC.  Pebble Beach, Jekyll Island, and Boca Raton past participants AND judges aren't welcomed at this event, at least for showing./judging.  It was an honest show, and a fair one.  It restored a little of my faith in the car community.  There were THREE W116 cars there.  A one owner 280se, and 450sel, and a 280S.  It was a lovely sight.  It was interesting to watch the spectators.  In the same area there were two 600's, some 190SL's, around 4 Gullwings, and some R113 Pagodas.  The spectators drew a much larger crowd around the W116 cars.  As I said, it was a lovely sight to behold. 

[Peter]

Thanks for the comments gents, it never ceases to amaze me what I learn from this forum. Update as follows, Rumb, I think I have the hoses sorted well as least the part numbers, they are indeed missing and are aircon drain hoses 123 832 05 94 and 123 832 06 94 so I'm on the hunt for a couple of perfect condition second hand hoses which I should be able to get. Brake pedal rubber is now on order and I didn't realise that there were a number of different pedal rubbers based on engine size etc.
Zak, guess where I found a MB genuine battery, in the wife's ML320 - just needs a good clean up so I will swap the batteries over for the concourse.
Aaron, you have a keen eye, you have spotted a few things that worried me and a few I didn't know, yes the York compressor should be unpainted, do you think it would improve things if I stripped the black paint and got rid of the "Ester" label on the front of it. I know they should all be York R210R compressors which this is I think and its just been reconditioned. Hose clamps, agreed and I will do my best at scrounging the correct clamps. The decal, well bugger me if I don't learn something every week here on the forum, I have seen that recess on top of the radiator many times and wondered why it was there, its obvious now that you point it out so hopefully I can get the decal off the shroud and place it where it should be. The engine is M110-985 so I'm ok on the dissy cap, thanks for the advice.
Many thanks everyone I think I have saved myself a good number of Concourse points here already.

[rumb]

The clamps need to be MB or German made, all the same style; they have rolled edges that don't cut into the hoses.

Gemi or Norma brand

I got mine here:

http://www.germanautoparts.com/Mercedes/1977/3252/4/11573/0

[UTn_boy]

The clamps need to be MB or German made, all the same style; they have rolled edges that don't cut into the hoses.

Gemi or Norma brand

Rumb, those are the wrong clamps.  The picture below show what I am talking about.


The engine is M110-985 so I'm ok on the dissy cap, thanks for the advice.

Peter, re-read my last comment about the distributor cap.  You have an M-110.985 engine, so you require the later style distributor cap with the plastic cap made on to it.  The Second picture below shows the correct style distributor cap.  However, there are two different version of the later style distributor caps.  Up to engine 110-985-12-075137 you would need distributor cap part number 000-158-36-02.  As of engine number 110-985-12-075138 you will need distributor cap part number 000-158-41-02. 

I didn't realize that there were a number of different pedal rubbers based on engine size etc.

There weren't.  The accelerator pedal was the same part throughout the whole production.  Part number 123-300-02-04. 

Regarding the brake pedal pad, there were only two, and the two were used in all models.  It had nothing to do with engine size.  What made the difference is whether or not the car was an automatic or a standard shift.  There was a big pad and a small pad.  The smaller ones were for standard shift cars.  Both the clutch pedal and the brake pedal had the same pad for manual shift cars, part number 107-291-01-82.  The larger pad, which your car requires, was for cars with automatic transmissions.  Part number 123-291-00-82. 

[daantjie]

Aaron, from a judging perspective is it frowned upon to have brand new components, for example a new brake fluid reservoir connected to otherwise original equipment like the booster and master cylinder?

[UTn_boy]

I've never held it against anyone for something like that because the reservoir is a wear item that sometimes has to be replaced, and it's a safety concern, too.  As long as it's the correct reservoir, I wouldn't worry too much.  If a judge docks you points for something like that, then they're either really hard pressed to find anything wrong, or they have no idea what they're doing, so they pick the reservoir out because it sticks out the most.  Usually, it's the second reason.  When this happens, make yourself heard.  Often times the judges literally do not know, and sometimes they have to be schooled by the owner of the car or other enthusiasts.  That's how I learned a lot of what I know....watching others, making a lot of mistakes, asking a lot of questions, and doing my own research.  I've learned quite a bit on this forum, too!   

In a judging, there will be what is called a preservation class.  This is for cars that are all original, or close to it, and that are still driven regularly.  Those are my favorites.....and don't forget the fellas like Pteshek that restored his to the nth degree and actually drives it regularly, too.  Those two types of cars are of more interest and value to a collector these days more so than a restored car is.  Those also seem win more awards, too.  Don't get me wrong.  The restored examples have a class all their own, but they are judged much more harshly.  In the case of a restored car, mixing of old an new parts will cost points, but only if it hasn't been made to look new again.  For brake fluid reservoirs there are methods to make them white again.  The most common I hear of is soaking it in a solution of water an bleach for about a month.  So there is always a way around having to buy some things.  It's rather aggravating to have to buy something expensive JUST to have it look new, especially when there isn't anything wrong with the old part... aside from having some age on it, that is.  However. if 1st place is desired in the restored concourse class, then the owner must realize that EVERYTHING has to be replaced and/or refinished.  I think Stan and I both will need therapy when this is all over. haha