News:

www.W116.org - By the people, for the people!

Main Menu

74 450 SEL repaint and bodywork

Started by 1974450SEL, 29 October 2008, 11:56 AM

1974450SEL

I plan to get 450 body work done right and repainted back to its original color of Anthracite Grey.  I first found her on the side of the road 2 years ago for 400.00, she ran so I took her home and immediately pulled out the cracked q-panel and put this not so pretty but functional temp patch and replaced the trunk lid and tail light to make her legal for the road.  
 Those who have repainted their cars before, what kind of cost am I looking at?  I know I can figure a minimum of a $1000.00 US to get the body done right.  My photo is in the show room gallery, it is the newest addition.  Grey colored Benz under Benz 05 and 06. Can't get it to link from this so go to that to look.  Thanks.

alabbasi

Where are you located? Are you planning to do the bodywork yourself? If so and you just want the car painted once you're done. Maaco will paint it in a base / clear for about $1000. If you're having the bodywork done. Expect to pay about $40 / hr for someone to do it.
With best regards

Al
Dallas, TX USA.

pez

And if you want quality paint [standox or glasurit, the two paints that were used at the factory and considered the highest quality on the aftermarket today] you will pay well over $1200 for just the paint product....and that's before it is put on the car, or any prep/repairs.

I just had mine done [and it was in great condition to start with] and the estimates from quality shops were all over $6k USD.

This is an area that you should not skimp on....any new paint, no matter how cheap, will just make the car look worse than it already does if not done perfectly....you can only be happy and spend your $ well if you get it done right.

alabbasi

The quality is in the prep work and not the paint. High end paint lines provide better matching which is critical for collision work when you have match against existing paint but not so important when painting a whole car.

The prep work is key because clear will build up against a high or low spot and make it stick out like a sore thumb. I paid $140 for a gallon of Dupont / Nason base in 419 Ikon Gold and the car looks like a million dollars.

With best regards

Al
Dallas, TX USA.

1974450SEL

I live in the Hampton Roads area of Virginia.  I will have the body work and paint all done professionally.  If I new how to weld  I would do it myself but on a car, its gotta be done right.  I've emailed a good number of shops around and await responses with photos of the car to see what I might be looking at.  I know for quality it could surpass what the car is currently worth.  That's where it depends on how much its worth to me so I can decide then once I can sit down with some of these body shops and see what they can do.  Thanks for the info.  Prep work is key as well as the high quality paint for a professional finish.   I'll keep you all posted. Thanks.

pez

The importance of time and money spent on prep work cannot be underestimated!

Also, don't be afraid to haggle with a body shop. They will double and triple charge for the same process over and over...it is standard in that industry.

My original estimate was over $6k and I got out the door for $2750 with Standox and having had the very best painter [an Aston Martin certified paint guy] do the work - it's so good the car has not even needed to be cut or polished after the paint job.  So basically, body shops have a ton of wiggle room. Just stay with a higher end so that you don't get up-charged on stuff after they get started...they will care more about doing it right and protecting their reputation than whether they make more or less on your 1 job.

alabbasi

Quote from: 1974450SEL on 30 October 2008, 11:29 AM
I've emailed a good number of shops around and await responses with photos of the car to see what I might be looking at.  I know for quality it could surpass what the car is currently worth.

You want to see the work and not the pictures. Pictures don't tell the full .......picture  ;)
With best regards

Al
Dallas, TX USA.

1974450SEL

Thanks for all the information.  I finally got  a return email from a local guy that has a number of years experience with the 116 body style and just what he could tell from the pictures told me what he estimated the cost would be.  1800 for paint, 600 for paint strip/body prep and 650 for body work.  I will be seeing him mid week to take the car in for a real assessment.  3gs is not bad for a rework/paint.  I will ask to see some of their work prior to making any decisions.  Sometimes these local body shops can be better than the National Chain specials, although our local Maaco is better than some I've seen.

John Hubertz

You know, I wish somebody would do a 70s hippie van repaint on one using fingernail polish - you know, like this:



I'd do mine if I'd been wise enough to buy one needing paint.

After all, it can't hardly lower the value, it really looks neat after you wetsand it, and if you sign it with some fake rockstar names and sell it without provenance someone probably would pay more then for a perfect car.  A buddy makes and sells fake op-art (peter max) as a hobby, and never claims they are anything but undocumented and not prints.

Gets a ton for them.  Frankly, I admit I've signed a couple of first editions myself.  History is for those who are aware that the authors CREATE history.  Fact is not the same as truth.
John Hubertz
"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro."
(Hunter S. Thompson) 

1977 450SEL (Max Headroom)
[img width=68 height=73][url="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f248/fullhappyfish/max.jpg"]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f248/fullhappyfish/max.jpg[/url][/img]

BAR

If you are handy with tools, it is possible to 'stip' off all the chrome / brightwork, headlights, taillights etc.  Then all the door hardware and trim.  Harder part is removing the windows and seals, but it is important to get the car into the stripped down state first so that the new paint goes over everything.

Nothing worse than seeing the gaps where a cheap respray job has masked off all these bits and you see gaps or overspray - like everything in life, go the whole 100% because 95% looks worse than not doing it right.