6.9sun roof

[aussie 6.9]

The sun roof in my car is slow to operate and appears to me to need lubrication. Where do I start ?

[WGB]

The lubricant recommended by M-B is very specific and very expensive.

By an accident of ordering I have ended up with two tins of the stuff and the next time the Perth "Light Horse" meet I will be quite happy to bring a tin along and fill up some small containers for gratis for the faithful - if they bring their own container. An old 35 mm film container would be a lifetime's supply.

It is also quite difficult to clean the channels back in the roof itself - use a long thin object with some foam or cloth on the end to push right back and then to apply the lubricant.

I did not find the plastic runners were worn when I dismantled my roof but I did find the cable was very dry and I think winding it out on the motor, cleaning the tube with a "Pull-through" and then back in with new grease would make some difference.

Two other items that affect the smooth running that have not been mentioned -

1) Rust at the drain tubes can deform the front of the channels and make it difficult to close.
2) The short cable tube in the rear of the boot well - after the motor, not the long one before it leading up to the roof - can become loose from it's clip and hang down and interfere with the clean running of the cable.

Bill

[aussie 6.9]

Thanks for the info everyone. I will have a go next weekend.

[13B]

Hi guys, what are these drain tubes and do they block up easy/unblock without difficulty?... my sunroof leaks

Ian.

[WGB]

There are 4 drains one on each front corner that go down the A-Pillars and one on each rear corner that go down the C-pillars.

Causes of a leak are:

1) Blocked drains especially if seals are worn and allowing extra water to leak past - drains should be adequate to collect water even if seals are shot.
2) Rust perforation in frame or roof structure.
3) leak at Gasket between sun-roof frame and roof structure - normally a rust problem again.

Just open the panel right up and look at the frame - rust will be obvious and starts in frame at two front corners near the visible front drain holes and first perforates the internal frame then spreads up into the roof struture.

Bill

[CraigS]

I have just replaced the deflector on one of mine as it was very badly rusted, yet the frame and body shell was still very good, with only minimal surface rust. Fortunately, this is an easy repair. The key to any sunroof is keeping the grease up to the components, and after almost 30 years, generally without any additional lubrication, they start to run slow or not at all. By following the workshop manual, it is relatively easy to remove the roof, and cable to re-grease them.

[aussie 6.9]

Craig, any chance of posting the relevant section of the manual or emailing it to those iterested? Regads Aussie 6.9.

[OzBenzHead]

Craig, any chance of posting the relevant section of the manual or emailing it to those iterested? Regads Aussie 6.9.

AU 6.9:  You should be able to download the relevant section from the library on this site.  http://www.w116.org/library

[CraigS]

I don't have a scanner where I am here, but yes, I will somehow get it copied and post it.

Craig, any chance of posting the relevant section of the manual or emailing it to those iterested? Regads Aussie 6.9.