Continuing with the trend, I have decided that the rust must be repaired. I have pulled everything out, including the sound deadening that I will probably replace with Dynamat in certain areas.
BTW, the strange lighting is due to the use of a 250W High Pressure Sodium discharge lamp in the car. This is the only way to work on cars in WA. This is a practice MT has been using for a while. ;D
Driver's view. There is no rust on this side.
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24788-3/driver_s.jpg) (http://gallery.w116.org/v/garage/tj+450/hvacu/driver_s.jpg/)
Across to the driver's side.
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24793-3/across_001.jpg) (http://gallery.w116.org/v/garage/tj+450/hvacu/across_001.jpg/)
That drainage hose mentioned in Koan's thread.
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24801-2/elbow.jpg) (http://gallery.w116.org/v/garage/tj+450/hvacu/elbow.jpg/)
A piece of steel was tacked onto the outside, with a differing profile by a P.O. There was clearly a huge hole there at some stage.
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24804-3/firewall+repair.jpg) (http://gallery.w116.org/v/garage/tj+450/hvacu/firewall+repair.jpg/)
A few holes, but not too bad.
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24807-3/floor.jpg) (http://gallery.w116.org/v/garage/tj+450/hvacu/floor.jpg/)
...
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24812-3/floor+area.jpg) (http://gallery.w116.org/v/garage/tj+450/hvacu/floor+area.jpg/)
...
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24815-3/floor+area2.jpg) (http://gallery.w116.org/v/garage/tj+450/hvacu/floor+area2.jpg/)
Unfortunately, the car is missing the carrier for the main loom.
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24820-3/wiring.jpg) (http://gallery.w116.org/v/garage/tj+450/hvacu/wiring.jpg/)
Tim
Awesome. Those are very inspiring photos. Thanks for sharing, and keep it up.
Good to see Tim.
Are you using a donor car to replace the rusted sections or or welding new steel?
Good Work, glad to see the 450 is getting its Christmas present 8)
You certainly take disassembly to a whole new level - what was it exactly that required the removal of the brake booster, steering column and controls ? ;)
Thanks for the comments. 8)
I removed the brake booster for cylinder head removal and it was a piece of cake to remove the steering column and brake pedal assembly. It needed to be done so I could confirm the condition of things behind there, as there's no point only doing one side if the other one needs attention as well. Thankfully, it is all 100% on the driver's side, except for the dodgy wiring arrangement that I will fix.
I'm sure the car will thank me for the efforts and I will be able to drive around in air conditioned comfort (hopefully). ;)
BTW, in case anyone thinks we are illicit hydroponics enthusiasts, with the discharge lamps, that isn't the case. It is just a main/arterial road street lighting luminaire being used in the car. 8)
Tim
Well, I just cut a huge hole in the floor. Hopefully I haven't cut myself into it. :D
I'll post some pics shortly.
Tim
Pics...
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24869-3/as+before.jpg) (http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24868-1/as+before.jpg)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24872-3/cut+area1.jpg) (http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24871-1/cut+area1.jpg)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24877-3/floor+area3.jpg) (http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24876-1/floor+area3.jpg)
By the way, don't worry about structural integrity. It will be way over engineered and much better than the rusted out mess before. What you see in the before pic is the tip of the iceberg! 8)
Tim
Nice progress, and 10 out of 10 for bravery. I've never seen rust there before.
by the looks of things, you still have some more cutting to do, since there is still more "cancer" under the box section that the seat mounts on ;)
Quote from: s class on 24 December 2009, 03:03 PM
Nice progress, and 10 out of 10 for bravery. I've never seen rust there before.
Is that where the water collects internally when the carpets get wet due to firewall leaks?
Bill
Yes, there's lots more cutting to do, but it will have to be from underneath. I need to remove the fuel/brake lines first.
Bill, I reckon you're on the money there. The water gets trapped under the box section and once it starts rusting, the iron oxide acts as a wick and soaks up the water.
Tim
I've always thought that genuine MB windscreen seals (front and rear) are expensive, but its clear that not replacing them when needed becomes horribly expensive.
I think so, s class.
The windscreen seals have been replaced on this car, but after the damage was done unfortunately. I do think that the hole in the firewall was the main culprit, though.
Tim
I've now got the HVAC unit back together. MT was able to re-foam the main flaps and I finished off the others. It's ready to go in, when I have the firewall sound deadening sorted out.
I haven't made huge progress, but I've stripped most of the metal of paint and PVC in the repair areas of the floor. A large flat sheet of steel from one of my W126's old doors has been stripped and prepared for the repairs.
Tim
that was a quick airbox freshen up, i must say, mine was lying around the house in pieces for over a week before i found the motivation to do the job and complete it ;)
Your's and S-class's unrelenting determination and motivation are something to be envied by all.
THanks PB. I have so many projects on my plate that I have to really go at them. I think TJ has a similar situation...
Indeed, and the pressure is on. My M100's thermostat housing finally gave up the ghost today. Fortunately, I can use another family member's vehicle in the meantime.
Anyway, it's all good fun. 8)
Tim
Not of the best quality, as the lighting was very poor...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uapXiXwPf4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uapXiXwPf4)
Enjoy the clunking flaps. ;)
Tim
Ah dude, thanks for the video - I'm glad I could hear the clunking as I cant see too much.
I may do a second take tomorrow afternoon, out in the sunlight. Having just viewed it, the YouTube compression seems to reduce the brightness to an unacceptable level.
Tim
for the first time, youll be able to experience levers that move ;)
I cant wait to install mine now, but i really need to order a new TX valve, and been reluctant to order from autohause on my own due to the poor value for money shipping offered these days.
just bought one on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220522754812
maybe i can find a drier locally, since im intending to get the hoses remanufactured also.
Levers that move will be quite an advancement, that's for sure. ;)
I will be looking into getting those A/C hoses done in the next few weeks and will let you know.
Tim
PB, you got that tx valve for a good price, the price of the drier at Autohaus is less than half the wholesale price here, so I would think it's your best option cost wise to get one from them unless postage is really expensive. There's a wholesaler here in Bris who has them in their catalogue, can inquire about cost for you if you wish.
Cheers,
Ken
minimum postage from autohouse these days is $55USD or there abouts. I dont need much so its kinda rediculous to pay that price - I'll be able to get it cheaper locally im sure ;)
but certainly, im interested in a price, they are probably available here too.
also, the same TX valve in an MB box will set you back $298USD - I've no idea why there is such a huge price difference.
How much was that tablecloth? ;D
Quote from: SELfor50 on 31 December 2009, 11:38 PM
How much was that tablecloth? ;D
you've been breathing in too much M100 exhuast fumes ;)
Mmmm, that kinda tips the balance doesn't it? I'll see what I can find out about local suppliers for you, might come in handy for later even if you get one in the meantime.
Cheers,
Ken
Quote from: SELfor50 on 31 December 2009, 11:38 PM
How much was that tablecloth? ;D
Hahaha, I find it rather difficult to look at. The intensity is epic. :D
No idea how much it was. 8)
Tim
A large amount of progress was made, but there's still a large hole in the firewall to deal with. Thanks to Major Tom's assistance and many hours of work, some repair panels were fabricated from a W126 door outer skin and subsequently welded in.
I'm also wondering if anyone has any tips for removing the PVC underbody coating. I'd like to strip it off and redo the lot in those areas.
The result, primed.
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24917-4/welding.jpg) (http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24916-1/welding.jpg)
Some stripping, poking and prodding revealed this, not surprisingly...
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24904-4/Rust+1.jpg) (http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24903-1/Rust+1.jpg)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24908-4/rust+2.jpg) (http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24907-1/rust+2.jpg)
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24913-4/Rust+3.jpg) (http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24912-1/Rust+3.jpg)
Tim
That's some very nice progress, well done. I bet you went to bed tired but smiling.
Is the welding MIG? Did you do it yourself?
I did indeed, although it was quite early in the morning by that stage. 8)
Major Tom did the welding, whilst I prepared the sheetmetal. It was Gasless MIG welding.
Tim
Well it looks like MT is quite capable with the MIG then.
welding is the easy part - getting the sheet metal parts bent to the correct shape and size is where all the work is, which i didn't participate in - that was all TJ's efforts ;)
We started this job at 3pm and I went home at about 2am, Its a massive job.
Nice work fellas. 8)
I can sympathise with forming the metal. Assuming you guys haven't got any special tools in the garage for folding etc? Last time I made a small bracket up I was running around the shed finding straight edges and pipe to bash my sheet metal against. That was after breaking my cheap vice too.
Re removing underbody coating: I've used wire wheels on a 4" grinder and tried a few other wire bits for a drill. Also tried a coarse flap sanding disc which worked well but clogged up when you hit paint. From memory the wire wheels worked best.
I used a wire rotary brush as well as paint removing layered discs on both 4 inch and 9 inch grinders.
It does burn quite well but you have to be very careful.
bill
This is for specific types of undercoating, I've no idea if it will work with yours,
http://www.eastwood.com/under-gone-undercoating-remover-aerosol-17-oz-net.html
Michael
TJ's car was on fire on numerous occasions during the welding, that MB body deadener certainly is very flamable. It was all very amusing at the time. But the garden hose was never far away. Handy for extinguishing MB fires and also a never ending source of rubber flavoured drinking water.
You do realise that a garden hose amounts to ideal lab conditions for cultivating huge quantities of bacteria, some of them associated with severe stomach ailments?
in perth, there is so much chlorine in the tap water that if you test it with a pool testing kit it shows the result as "ideal" I doubt anything could live in it. Ive always drank from a hoses as have others and never gotten sick ;)
Fortunately, there was also a source of filtered water in the Kitchen. It was a garden hose sitting in the sun, too.
I was using a wire cup rather than wheel. That underbody coating is very thick and drill attachment really bites into it with a lot of friction. I did notice that it lifts off when heated. Perhaps I'll try a heat gun.
It also seems that it's applied directly to bare metal.
I was unaware of just how combustible that material was.
Panel fabrication was done with a 4" bench vice, tin snips, 4" angle grinder, a selection of hammers, a small anvil and a few other tools.
Tim
This afternoon, I installed the dash and HVAC unit. Saturday was spent with Major Tom welding in the section of the upper firewall and applying filler to finish it off. It was then painted in satin black, but in hindsight white would have been more appropriate. I'll apply sound deadening over this anyway.
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24999-4/450+dash.jpg) (http://gallery.w116.org/dl/24998-1/450+dash.jpg)
Unfortunately I didn't get to take any photos prior, as we were going flat out to get it done.
Tim
I told you white was better ;)
That's very nice, impressive progress. Did you have that dash refurbushed?
That dash sure looks great.
Great job and thanks for the photos.
Bill
The dash remains unrestored, but the general appearance is like new until you get right up close. The wood is very nice.
I might restore the dash if there is a next time that it comes out. I'll be using it as daily driver until my 126 is on the road.
Tim
Making very fast progress there Timbo.
Lookin' good.
Dash is in great nic for sure.
You might have already mentioned this, but are you replacing all the wiring / vacuum lines etc etc.. in the process?
Cam.
Cheers for the comments. 8)
The vacuum lines rarely need replacing inside the car, but the ones that go to the doors can fatigue through constant use of the doors... I hadn't actually thought about that, but I think they will be fine.
The vacuum fittings and lines under the dash are no problem, as all the rubber connectors are accessable with the dash in place anyway.
The wiring remains original at the moment. The reason I've left the driver's side in a shambles, is that I will indeed need to go through the wiring and double check that my previous repairs are suitable.
When I got the car, there was a mess of molten insulation due to shorts and the brake lights weren't working. That was one of the first repairs I did.
Someone had previously removed the "conduit", or loom containing device that runs from the fuse box to the lateral frame behind the dash. Not a good thing, because the parking brake mechanism rubs against the wiring. :o I'll have to do something about that.
Anyway, here's a status update...
(http://gallery.w116.org/dl/25033-4/P1030258.jpg) (http://gallery.w116.org/dl/25032-1/P1030258.jpg)
There is no sound deadening material yet, as that will be a separate exercise.
Also, the centre console wood panel is slightly skewhiff, something that I'll need to rectify.
Of course, all the heater flaps now work. :)
Tim