3D printed parts

[ptashek]

Technology is awesome, 3D printers are getting cheaper by the minute - so let's get creative!

Here's my first attempt at prototyping the sill chrome moulding clip, and I must say it's come out real good.
Designed in Autodesk Inventor 2014 and printed with a 5th generation MakerBot.
The left and right one differ in resolution (0.01mm v. 0.02mm layer).

Haven't tested it on the car yet, but it looks just like the original spare a few minute details. I'm quite positive it'll be a fit. If not, I'll just change the params in my model. That's the beauty of rapid prototyping

I have plans to do more parts this way, with the next candidate being the cruise control cable adjustment screw and mount clips.
I want to make myself a new cable because they're NLA from MB, or anywhere else.

[w116john]

that is pretty cool, how cost effective is it? not that its an issue just out of curiosity . i have seen some amazing images of 3d printed objects.

the potential is huge

[ptashek]

These clips (OEM) are between 2 and 5 USD each (1.50 - 3.75 EUR), depending on who you buy from.
In my case, printed on a 5th generation MakerBot at high resolution (100 micron layer thickness, 25% infill), each clip is 1.64g of plastic, and takes just under 30 minutes to print.

A 1kg roll of PLA filament is ~60USD (~45EUR). Accounting for waste/supports, let's say each clip requires 2g of plastic. That gives you 500 parts from one roll, or ~0.14USD (~0.11EUR) each - with cost of electricity accounted for. It works out way cheaper than the OEM part and will very likely work just as well. I wouldn't use this method for anything structurally or visually critical, given that PLA is bio-degradable, and that the finish is relatively rough.

[ptashek]

So the 0.2mm @ 15% infill part broke right off - not enough material in the shaft. The 0.1mm @ 25% infill part works like a charm albeit, due to the rough(ish) surface, the fit is pretty tight. I'm really happy with the design.





For anyone interested in trying these out:

- the (improved) design file:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/z9y1hodjsiogx3z/MB_A0009887881.ipt

- the STL file, which a 3D printer can consume:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/s01z6qcldq4uskc/MB_A0009887881.stl

[nathan]

this is very interesting and cool. i work at a couple of larger public hospitals where the 3D printers are worth over 6 figures.  they print us a number of things including biomodels to replicate parts of the skeleton. we can use laser scanners to scan in very accurate items.
i might get in trouble if i start moonlighting and printing parts for the w116!

[ptashek]

A few more items I have reverse engineered from existing parts.
This time it's elements of A1163002230 (cruise control cable).

[gavin116]

Hi Lucas


I'd be interested in one of those.  As M-B no longer makes the cruise control cable, it would be great to have a longer male component to address the slack in the cable.  I resorted to placing two cable ties on the end of the cable to remove the slack.


Regards,


Gavin

[ptashek]

I've solved this problem on my 450 the exact same way for now

The OEM adjustment screw is 40mm, I'm testing mine at the same length - printing it today.
If it works, I'm actually thinking of making a production run of a few hundred of those on a proper extruder.

[oversize]

Is there any way to make the parts more durable?  The engine bay is a very harsh environment

[ptashek]

Is there any way to make the parts more durable?  The engine bay is a very harsh environment

You mean the 3D printed parts?
They're really only meant to be used for rapid prototyping and design validation, but for some applications (like the clip) they're good enough. The material I am using (PLA) has very similar properties to PET (the stuff plastic bottles are made of), but can withstand much lower temperatures and becomes soft at around 60*C. It wouldn't last long under the hood. Other printers can use ABS as source material, and that should have no problem existing in the engine bay.