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My 6.9's

Started by rumb, 01 September 2015, 09:36 AM

ptashek

As daantjie mentioned, the master key opens all locks. The car should've come with two of those, with one sealed in a transparent plastic sleeve attached to the build card (below is what came with my 450 from factory). The key you mentioned is the third key, also known as a service key, and yes it fits only drivers door and ignition. The dealer should be able to source a proper replacement master key based on your VIN. I'd push them harder :)
1993 "Pearl Blue" W124 280TE
1988 "Arctic White" W124 200T
1979 "Icon Gold" W116 450SE

floyd111

Eeh..what?
I need a card like this, WITH a key in plastic? You say this is obtainable through MB?
And.. replacing tumblers.. That is also news. Can you confirm this is possible?
Does that mean you keep the MB tumbler assemblies, but the internals of the tumblers get changed around?

ptashek

Quote from: floyd111 on 07 December 2015, 06:41 PM
Eeh..what?
I need a card like this, WITH a key in plastic? You say this is obtainable through MB?

I'm not certain about the card, but I think the answer is yes. The keys are definitely available from MB.
This card is the client copy of the production card that would have been delivered with the car. A second copy was usually attached to the bottom of the rear-bench.
I have both of those, with the master key still sealed. I have also another card, which I think is the factory copy of the build sheet. On of those is stamped "23 Augustus 1979" on the back, which is either when my car left the factory, or was put on the assembly line (first registered Oct 1979).

Here's how the other card looks like. Position #36 (Türschloss) is where they original key number would be. That and the VIN, and you have your master key.
Oh, it also lists all the options on the car!

1993 "Pearl Blue" W124 280TE
1988 "Arctic White" W124 200T
1979 "Icon Gold" W116 450SE

rumb

VIN and key number off of build card were supplied to MB. Field #11 is the key number.  They made keys that are for that VIN and show the correct key #. The problem I believe is that someone changed some or all the locks.  I do find it very odd that they were changed into 2 different patterns as the old master key key - actually a copy of that key - fits the drivers door and ignition only, and that the supplied new keys dont fit anything.  someone also has drilled a 1" hole by back license plate area to be able to access and unlock the trunk at some time and disconnected the vacuum mechanism. 


So someone lost all the keys and didnt know that you can get replacements from the dealer and then messed everything up.  I think I saw a receipt that the PO had bought a new key, and thought it weird that it wasnt given to me.

'68 250S
'77 6.9 Euro
'91 300SE,
'98 SL500
'14 CLS550,
'16 AMG GTS
'21 E450 Cabrio

rumb

So my other opttion is to remove all the locks and ignitions switch from the parts car.

I will also investigate the cost as ability of a locksmith to redo all the tumblers, it that is even possible.
'68 250S
'77 6.9 Euro
'91 300SE,
'98 SL500
'14 CLS550,
'16 AMG GTS
'21 E450 Cabrio

gavin116

#35
Hi Rumb

I think what happened at some point is that your ignition lock got "sticky" and a replacement barrel was sourced from a parts carts, and perhaps the driver's door lock was changed at the same time.

My situation was this:

       
  • The ignition barrel had been slightly "sticky".  (If this happens, it's a warning sign!  First off, I'd order a new key from M-B and see if it fixes the problem.  If it doesn't, you need to change the ignition barrel out, because if it seizes, then it becomes an absolute nightmare to change over. The key needs to be in position two to slot in the release tool (basically a straight piece of wire) to be able to pull the barrel.)
  • The little door on the driver's side door lock had fallen off.  This would allow dirt and water to enter the lock barrel directly, a sure way to accelerate lock and key wear and ultimately lock death.  (This little part cannot be replaced on its own.  Also, the barrel cannot be replaced on its own, the lock is integral to the door handle, so has to be changed as a unit.)
So, in my case, I was forced to do something as I had the double whammy mentioned above.  I knew it would just be a matter of time before the locks got totally stuck, and I would be stranded.

New lock sets are a thing of the past.  I managed to buy one of the last W116 lock sets available from Fellenbach (M-B Germany classic parts) for a non-central locking car.  The central locking set in NLA.  The parts guy and I thought in our naivety that we could simply remove the "hook" on the boot lock, and screw the central locking componentry onto the back of the new boot lock, but it's not a fit.  I might have to send it off to Belgium to the lock man to have the tangs in the barrel replaced.  So, I do have one key essentially to work everything when I get the boot barrel re-keyed, but it is also not the same lock number as on my data card.

To those of you who can live with more than one key, the news is equally as bad if your ignition barrel goes.  I know insofar as the newer key types go (like the one Lucasz pictured - square profile with the pattern cut into the key as opposed to the "teeth" being on the edge) the ignition barrel is NLA.  I do not know what M-B expect one to do when your ignition barrel is about to or has seized, as they don't actually give an alternative ignition barrel.  I found this very strange, as this key type was used in late W116's, R107's and W201's.  Now with 2 door M-B cars being quite so popular you would have thought M-B would pull themselves together and ask Huff locks to do a new production run...

So, Rumb, I'm afraid your lock issues are going to be a bit of a struggle.  Lucky for you and me, even if we did nothing to our current lock sets, we already have that wonderful anti-theft device installed in our cars: the fuel consumption...
;D
1979 450SE "Mrs White"
2022 Touareg-R 3.0TSi Hybrid
[url="http://forum.w116.org/test-drive/my-first-w116-here-at-last/"]http://forum.w116.org/test-drive/my-first-w116-here-at-last/[/url]
[url="http://forum.w116.org/the-org/british-near-london-meet/msg97613/#msg97613"]http://forum.w116.org/the-org/british-near-london-meet/msg97613/#msg97613[/url]

rumb

But the weird part is that the new keys don't fit ANYTHING. Someone changing the glovebox and trunk doesn't make any sense. Plus that someone drilled the trunk to open it also.

I think my easiest path is to swap all the locks from the other car.


If only our cars could talk.  :o :o


PS, I found the receipt, PO bought new key on 10/4/10 that I did not get, so I would guess it didn't work then either..
'68 250S
'77 6.9 Euro
'91 300SE,
'98 SL500
'14 CLS550,
'16 AMG GTS
'21 E450 Cabrio

rumb

Front door handles swapped between cars, very easy to do.  Ignition key cylinder was a lot harder to do. You have to get the key in just the right spot and also then find and press the release spot just right and pull out hard.  Got cylinder plastic surround out by fashioning a stainless bicycle spoke. you have to push it in almost an inch to get to the rear of it so you can pull it out.

Well that got me 3 out of the 4.  The trunk lock from the parts car didnt work with the keys I have.  Just my luck.  See my WTB listing.

I took one trunk lock apart down to the cylinder.  I dont think they can be opened to change the tumblers.  it looks like it is staked together. 
'68 250S
'77 6.9 Euro
'91 300SE,
'98 SL500
'14 CLS550,
'16 AMG GTS
'21 E450 Cabrio

rumb

Here are some pictures of the Webasto parts. I have decided to make operational.  I found a new fuel pump that fits Porsche and is same brand and configuration. The fuel atomiser runs and make a big noise (it's suppose to be that way). It lives in the black box and is the round device with a fan. the heat exchanger looks solid and the water pump on it works.
'68 250S
'77 6.9 Euro
'91 300SE,
'98 SL500
'14 CLS550,
'16 AMG GTS
'21 E450 Cabrio

rumb

also working on rust in left front wheel well.  you will see the rather large hole I have now. It started out only 1/2" x 2". Still working toward getting parking brake out of the way. there seems to be a few extra wires down there that need investigating. That and the oily substance the is on the rubber mat.  I have new grommets for the brake fluid reservoir on order.

I finally finished replacing the hydraulic hose with new rubber hose and fresh plated fittings.   the rear struts are ready to go back in with new boots. The hydraulic pump has been swapped for a 1998 vintage one, and got a new coil green wire.

So far I have ordered over 355 parts for the car. 
'68 250S
'77 6.9 Euro
'91 300SE,
'98 SL500
'14 CLS550,
'16 AMG GTS
'21 E450 Cabrio

daantjie

What I did in that spot that rusts into the wheel well is put a drain tube in so that future water has a place to go.  It is a very tight spot to work in, and at the end the tube I put in was not big enough, so it keeps getting clogged :o  but the idea is there.  So learn from my mistake and put a large enough drain tube to exit into the wheel well, when you patch it all up.  Also make sure the drain tube sits at the absolute lowest point of the recess so you get a total drain of all fluid into that area.
Daniel
1977 450 SEL 6.9 - Astralsilber

rumb

Yes, it seem odd that MB did not provide a drain hole.  The W126's have nice large ones in each corner.
'68 250S
'77 6.9 Euro
'91 300SE,
'98 SL500
'14 CLS550,
'16 AMG GTS
'21 E450 Cabrio

floyd111

are you gonna re-install the Webasto system, or may it be for sale?

rumb

No, I'm keeping mine...

most of one is listed here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Komplette-Standheizung-Webasto-WP1021-VE1009-Benzin-mit-Vorwahluhr-Mercedes-W126-/161600749279

you would still need the fuel pump, dial timer and the fuel lines.  search for WP1021 to find one and learn about them.
  the one listed has the  modern controller instead of the dial.
'68 250S
'77 6.9 Euro
'91 300SE,
'98 SL500
'14 CLS550,
'16 AMG GTS
'21 E450 Cabrio

floyd111

so what's that gas-tank looking monstrosity about? Isnt that part of the Webasto? the eBay add does not show that.