News: - The #1 resource for our W116! Established 2004

Main Menu

Recent posts

Mechanicals / Re: which way to go?.....Air c...
Last post by ramiro - 27 May 2024, 11:56 AM
I have converted 2 w116 to r134a with the manual AC, both were behaving similar , on my 6.9 i replaced all seals in the compressor and also the dryer and expansion valve.
Perfomance is ok for germany i would say but don't expect any good cooling if it gets far above 30c , what i find weird that if you start driving the car it cools very good but on long drives it the aircon gets weaker especially if you use it on a high setting.
My w126 with r134a cools much much better.
Mechanicals / Re: which way to go?.....Air c...
Last post by BMA - 27 May 2024, 11:07 AM
I am living in Germany, so unless climate change pretty moderate climate.
What you did is admirable, but exactly what I wanna avoid!

If my compressor breaks down, as you are promising, I can always buy another one, but maybe it will last?...So why do something preventively that might not be necessary?

Regards from currently sunny Germany,

Mechanicals / Re: hydro line mystery
Last post by daantjie - 26 May 2024, 08:44 PM
Quote from: ramiro on 25 May 2024, 04:07 PMIt is section 32 , there is just a change for the front strut line mentioned but think that maybe the rear line had this change done from the start.

I have read section 32 of my workshop manual but I see no reference to this change that was made.  I think I have an older version of the workshop manual which does not have this revision. Does it state in your manual when this change was made?  Usually they would have stated a month/year or VIN/chassis number split for the change.
Mechanicals / Re: 4spd 280SE D-Jet Misfire /...
Last post by carzilike - 26 May 2024, 07:46 PM
Does anyone know if the Euro spec 280SE with D-jet takes 0.032" gap or 0.035" gap for the spark plugs?
I just want to make sure I get the right parts. Although the car fires right up usually, one of the spark plug wires is frayed / damaged so I'm wondering if I should get that?
Also wondering if the cap / rotor are different on the Euro d-jet model vs north American k-jet?

Rockauto suggests spark plugs for this car with all various gaps from 0.028" to 0.035"
just want to get the right parts and I will stick to copper plugs given the age of the vehicle
Test Drive / Re: 6.9 driving musings
Last post by raueda1 - 26 May 2024, 05:53 PM
Quote from: ramiro on 25 May 2024, 04:44 AMWeird, power wise i think the car is actually to zippy in towns because even with a light touch of the throttle pedal it really wants to take off , i always have to be careful to not give to much throttle while turning or the car wants to spin the tires or just feels uncomfortable.

Is the spring pressure of your throttle pedal linear?
For me the first part is very light until one point where when you get over that the car really takes off, sometimes that's actually annoying because if you just want to give it a little more throttle you get over that bump and it gets to much , but on the other hand it makes slower driving easier.
Honestly, I can't recall what my throttle response was like originally, but after messing with it the response was extremely smooth and progressive. None of the problems described in this thread.  At the time I vaguely remember Daniel talking about how the roller in the cam-like plate of the linkage needed to be just so.  And getting it that way wasn't easy, but I think that's the key.  First I replaces all the plastic stuff (balls, bushings, roller etc).  I also vaguely recall working on both ends of the linkage separately before reconnecting the long rod.  That is, getting each "end" of the linkage right before connecting them together with the long rod - first get pedal, roller cam etc just right, then get the short throttle linkage right and only then set up the long rod.  Then repeat just for good measure. The CIS manual goes through it, more or less, except the nonsense on shift rod adjustment.  Anyway, throttle response is terrific, maybe best I've experienced in any car.  My partner has BMW X1 and the car jack-rabbits around.  And I recently drove some kind of Hyundai, same thing.  Terrible.

Hope this makes sense, it's a holiday weekend and I've started on the margaritas  ;D    Cheers,
Mechanicals / Re: which way to go?.....Air c...
Last post by sutekh - 26 May 2024, 08:16 AM
Probably not what you want to hear, but I wouldn't bother with the Delco compressor. Even if you're able to get it working again after a drain / refill + new o-rings, they're not particularly efficient or reliable. I invested time and money into getting mine working only to have it fail completely a couple of months later.

Almost a year after posting this, my AC is still blowing ice cold (used it yesterday!):
Mechanicals / Re: which way to go?.....Air c...
Last post by BMA - 26 May 2024, 07:55 AM
Many Thanks Max-NL,
Kühler-Diek in Hamburg is just 200 km distance. Will call them tomorrow.

My level of knowledge meanwhile is in order to let remain the work and expenses in a moderate level:

1. Drain oil of the compressor when installed
2. perhaps loosen a little to turn so that the oil runs out well
3. some O-rings change to green ones, if 2. to do
4. pressure test of the whole system with a special gas.
5. let fill into the system 285 ml PAG 100 for the compressor  plus maybe some ml more for the exchanged dryer. My compressor model is the Delco/ Harrison A6 mo. nr. 1131236
6. maybe flushing the system
7. evacuation
8. 134a filling in: 850 Gramm. (R12 was 1000 Gramm, factor 0.85 when go to R134a)
9. Hoping it will get cold and system is not leaking a week later! :-)

Mechanicals / Re: which way to go?.....Air c...
Last post by Max-NL - 26 May 2024, 06:24 AM
I am also interested in this thread, as I'm almost at the point where the A/C system can be put in operation again.

I am looking into R437a, which should work as a drop-in solution for R12. It works with the mineral oil, and the cooling capacity should be the same or even better than R12 (statement from a Klimaservice, so take it with a grain of salt).

Not sure where in Germany you are located, but it seem this company works with R347a : . Maybe they could also give you some tips?
Mechanicals / which way to go?.....Air condi...
Last post by BMA - 26 May 2024, 01:40 AM
Hi Guys, I am very confused which way to go to convert my empty R12 system to R134a?
System is empty for many years.
Replacement refrigerant R 413a is hardly available anymore here in Germany, so R134a seems the way to go.
(Of curse the first test will be to put overpressure into the system to check if its leakproof.)

Some change almost everything, including a new compressor which works with R134a (or put new O-rings into the compressor), other expansion valve, all gaskets and what so ever, .....probably even new tyres :-)...... Other just changed the dryer, pressure switch and some gaskets and did NOT change the oil!....So just added some PAG oil. That's the way I planned as well but I read Nightmare stories that the old R12 organic oil does not work with the R134a (PAG Esther) oil. I have a Delco compressor, model no.1131236 in my 1979 6.9 (manual climate system, no automatic AC).

Would be happy about getting the ultimate efficient advice from people with experience in that field which way to go?

Many Thanks in advance,


PS: That I need also the R134a fill in adaptors is clear.
Test Drive / Re: 6.9 driving musings
Last post by Randys01 - 25 May 2024, 10:03 PM
I find the throttle a bit trigger happy to begin with but generally linear inasmuch as there is a direct correlation between the throttle and linkage. ie it is not electronically manipulated like modern cars.