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#41
Mechanicals / Re: m110 K jetronic no start
Last post by abril - 15 March 2023, 03:34 PMQuote from: rumb on 02 March 2023, 07:17 PMThere are a lot of parts involved in the system and all must work correctly.Thanks for the answer I didn't receive any emails and I wanted to check out the website and I just saw a bunch of answers I will try it out
*some* have rebuilt the fuel distributors themselves but best bet is to send to cis flowtech along with the wur for rebuild and calibration to you particular engine.
If you have no resistance on the intskd plate that means either the FD is bad or your fuel pressures are off.
Did someone change engines in the car as w108 never existed with CIS. Did you mean w116 chassis?
Plenty of threads here on checking fuel pressure includine a current one one this very issue.
Look at top of page on a computer fron w116.org and find technical section and then the fuel system documents on how to measure fuel pressures.
Quote from: rumb on 04 March 2023, 02:38 PMThis and other threads on this site should be useful:I will check them out and report back
https://forum.w116.org/mechanicals/excessive-control-pressure-combines-inside-the-wur-and-fuel-cell-height-cp/
youtube for CIS video to get basic understanding:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4fJAfXYxWk
Then find the manual on this site and start with testing the fuel pressures as described.
Feel free to ask specific questions as you go.
#42
Mechanicals / Re: m110 K jetronic no start
Last post by abril - 15 March 2023, 03:32 PMQuote from: rumb on 02 March 2023, 07:17 PMThere are a lot of parts involved in the system and all must work correctly.Thanks for the answer I didn't receive any emails and I wanted to check out the website and I just saw a bunch of answers I will try it out
*some* have rebuilt the fuel distributors themselves but best bet is to send to cis flowtech along with the wur for rebuild and calibration to you particular engine.
If you have no resistance on the intskd plate that means either the FD is bad or your fuel pressures are off.
Did someone change engines in the car as w108 never existed with CIS. Did you mean w116 chassis?
Plenty of threads here on checking fuel pressure includine a current one one this very issue.
Look at top of page on a computer fron w116.org and find technical section and then the fuel system documents on how to measure fuel pressures.
#43
Mechanicals / Re: 280 SE problem ignition
Last post by KASTE - 15 March 2023, 02:38 PMok grazie ho preso la pompa nuova per sicurezza ma il wur dove si trova di preciso?
#44
Mechanicals / Re: 280 SE problem ignition
Last post by rumb - 15 March 2023, 12:10 PMMy first thought is plugged fuel filter. There is one in bottom of gas tank and the other by the fuel pump.
The surging during warm up could be the WUR.
The surging during warm up could be the WUR.
#45
Mechanicals / Re: 280 SE problem ignition
Last post by KASTE - 15 March 2023, 10:44 AMè rimasta ferma per 2 anni ma quando l'ho comprata e ho fatto 200km per portarla a casa non mi ha dato problemi, dopo con il tempo ha cominciato a fare questo scherzo fin che ora è diventato insopportabile
#46
Mechanicals / Re: 280 SE problem ignition
Last post by Nabstud - 15 March 2023, 10:41 AMCould be a blockage in the fuel system? When the car is stopped the dirt/blockage drops to the bottom of the tank, the when driving it clogs the fuel line again???
#47
Mechanicals / Re: WUR better, now engine rac...
Last post by Feather535 - 15 March 2023, 10:33 AMI found the cause of this problem, and it was totally unexpected.
I disconnected the vacuum brake booster and plugged its port on the manifold, but the same thing happened: the engine started to race as soon as I took my foot off the brake.
This was puzzling, because the booster should have been the only connection between the engine and the brakes--or so I thought. But then I realized that, on this car, there is another connection: cruise control. The cable that activates cruise control was slack, as it should be, when the engine isn't running, but I disconnected it, started the engine, and it didn't race.
I didn't know the cruise control was even functional on this car and don't know why it was doing this, so the problem isn't exactly fixed. But with it disconnected, I can get back to working on other issues.
I disconnected the vacuum brake booster and plugged its port on the manifold, but the same thing happened: the engine started to race as soon as I took my foot off the brake.
This was puzzling, because the booster should have been the only connection between the engine and the brakes--or so I thought. But then I realized that, on this car, there is another connection: cruise control. The cable that activates cruise control was slack, as it should be, when the engine isn't running, but I disconnected it, started the engine, and it didn't race.
I didn't know the cruise control was even functional on this car and don't know why it was doing this, so the problem isn't exactly fixed. But with it disconnected, I can get back to working on other issues.
#48
Mechanicals / 280 SE problem ignition
Last post by KASTE - 15 March 2023, 09:42 AMGood morning everyone
I have seen all the posts but I have not found anyone who has had the same problem as me or the same symptoms or maybe I may have missed it and I apologize.
I have a 280se from 1978 and it has the following problems. I try to be as concise as possible:
I turn on the cold car, it starts immediately, it accelerates and decelerates by itself for 1 minute, as soon as it warms up it goes to the right idle, at 80 degrees I set off and after 4\5 km or 5 minutes on the road when I accelerate the car has gaps and it starts to run on 5 cylinders\4 cylinders, I stop, turn off the car and immediately turn it on again and everything works perfectly again but after another 4\5 km or 5 minutes it starts again with this problem.
if I leave the hot car turned off for more than 20 minutes (still a little hot) after that it doesn't restart immediately and the motor turns many times before it turns on again from hot.
I leave it at 80 degrees and a constant oil pressure of 2.5 bar after 10 minutes cylinder 6 no longer works and then 5, 4 and 3 until the engine stays on with only 2 cylinders and then shuts down completely .
I beg you, help me understand what the problem could be because when the car is fine, everything runs like a god without problems but when he plays that joke on me, I can't drive it anymore, risking accidents.
thanks to all and to whoever can help me
Lorenzo
I have seen all the posts but I have not found anyone who has had the same problem as me or the same symptoms or maybe I may have missed it and I apologize.
I have a 280se from 1978 and it has the following problems. I try to be as concise as possible:
I turn on the cold car, it starts immediately, it accelerates and decelerates by itself for 1 minute, as soon as it warms up it goes to the right idle, at 80 degrees I set off and after 4\5 km or 5 minutes on the road when I accelerate the car has gaps and it starts to run on 5 cylinders\4 cylinders, I stop, turn off the car and immediately turn it on again and everything works perfectly again but after another 4\5 km or 5 minutes it starts again with this problem.
if I leave the hot car turned off for more than 20 minutes (still a little hot) after that it doesn't restart immediately and the motor turns many times before it turns on again from hot.
I leave it at 80 degrees and a constant oil pressure of 2.5 bar after 10 minutes cylinder 6 no longer works and then 5, 4 and 3 until the engine stays on with only 2 cylinders and then shuts down completely .
I beg you, help me understand what the problem could be because when the car is fine, everything runs like a god without problems but when he plays that joke on me, I can't drive it anymore, risking accidents.
thanks to all and to whoever can help me
Lorenzo
#49
Mechanicals / Re: Just secured a 450 SEL 6.9...
Last post by nathan - 15 March 2023, 02:36 AMAndrew, my father in law actually made one extra bag for the rear I still have, ill look for it and put it aside for you as a gift.
#50
Mechanicals / Re: Just secured a 450 SEL 6.9...
Last post by andrewk - 15 March 2023, 12:34 AMQuote from: nathan on 06 March 2023, 03:49 PMThere are no factory cases for the emergency blocks, the ones you have seen in the YouTube video were made by myfather in law who was a furniture trimmer. I just wanted something to store the blocks in so they looked a bit tidier, and asked my father in law to make something up. The cables was a ridiculous inflationary tale. I bought mine from MB for (I kid you not) $15 each about 2005. 1-2 years later when I went to get a set for dad, they were about $250 each for some wild reason. I have no idea what they are worth now but imagine they aren't cheap.Good to know. I might have the leather trimmer who is going to rebuild the seats make me a case for the rear blocks. I don't have the front blocks but will need a set for emergencies.
It seems I am much deeper into this car than expected - both time and money wise. However, I am not concerned as the car will be in very good shape following the myriad of parts and work completed. I have found a shop to do the registration work and other items required to get the car running properly (CMR Automotive in Marrickville NSW, around the corner from my workshop) as I am out of time and really need to concentrate on some other projects (i.e. my business and day to day activities) for a while.