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#31
Mechanicals / Re: PSA - Effect of ethanol bl...
Last post by raueda1 - 20 March 2024, 10:36 AM
Quote from: revilla on 23 September 2023, 01:33 PMOr could be this one depending on your fuel package, with or without check valve, one inlet type accumulator.

1264700164
I'm struggling to find the single (i.e., 2-ended) part pictured that replaces the rubber hose. All that I can find from usual suppliers is the rubber hose design.  1234702264 seems to be the 3-ended solid tube version.  Does anybody know the PN for the solid line that replaces the rubber hose version? Thanks and cheers,
#32
Mechanicals / Re: Replacing Indicator Relays
Last post by Pete49 - 19 March 2024, 10:02 PM
search for Topklasse its a aussie forum board dealing in W117 models. Also in Ozbenz forum is an answer regarding thisvery question and how to adjust the aftermarket one work correctly.
#33
Mechanicals / Re: Replacing Indicator Relays
Last post by Alex - 19 March 2024, 06:35 AM
Quote from: Jed on 16 March 2024, 02:59 PMSome cars have the relay built into the large hazard switch relay in the center console.  Other models have a separate relay under dash.  Just follow the clicking noise when the turn signal is on and that's the relay.

Before I would start messing with the relay I would not only change the bulbs but be sure all the contacts are good and not corroded/oxidized, including the grounds on all the light bulbs.  A fast flashing turn signal usually means too much resistance/a bulb is out.  If all the bulbs are working you may still have too much resistance due to corrosion or a bad contact.

i would not mess around with aftermarket relays  Get the correct OEM style relay. Some are reasonabley priced and some are not...

I replaced all bulbs so that isn't it. The wires all looked good and fine, (untouched since 1977 purchase).

https://www.repco.com.au/globes-batteries-electrical/electrical-accessories/flashers-relays/tridon-flasher-12v-3-pin-hd13/p/A4070658
^ I might just chuck one of these in. Thoughts? - I reckon it should just work..

The bulbs I have in currently are 21W. (ba15s). And the flasher takes 11-15v, and its a consistent speed.
#34
Shop / Re: 6.9 UK model wanted
Last post by 6point9kenya - 18 March 2024, 09:08 AM
Unfortunately, I am not a member of Mercedes Club UK anymore...

If anybody here is and sees a 6.9 for sale, I would appreciate the lead...

J-P
#35
Mechanicals / Re: ElectricL
Last post by Alec300SD - 17 March 2024, 08:52 PM
Plugs into warning buzzer switch on steering column column lock assembly shown on attached image.
That switch is AWOL on your assembly.

#36
Mechanicals / Re: ElectricL
Last post by daantjie - 17 March 2024, 04:36 PM
Might be connection for power to the radio.
#37
Mechanicals / ElectricL
Last post by w116 350 se - 17 March 2024, 03:01 PM
Hi
I have removed my dashboard in a 450 Sel 1979. There's a lose connection coming from the harness to the key switch. A White connection with 2 wires, 1 red and 1 red with a green thin line.
Anyone know about this? Hard to find in the wire diagram.
#38
Mechanicals / Re: Converting my 1977 280SE t...
Last post by Nabstud - 17 March 2024, 08:19 AM
How did this conversion go?
#39
Mechanicals / Re: Becker Mexico Radio Shorte...
Last post by Alex - 17 March 2024, 03:45 AM
Nevermind. I fixed it by replacing the little light inside.

Cheers guys.
#40
Mechanicals / Re: Becker Mexico Radio Shorte...
Last post by Alex - 17 March 2024, 02:49 AM
Quote from: UTn_boy on 16 March 2024, 06:48 PMI just can't wrap my head around how something shorted, as the only way this could happen is if the radios ground wire made contact with a 12+ source, but the ground wire on these radios unscrews from the rear before removal.  Minus the large gray cable that goes to the separately mounted amplifier, there are only three connections on the actual head in unit (the radio).  A ground, a 12+ bullet connector, and the coaxial lead for the antenna. 

Regardless, the Mexico and Grand Prix models have a fuse on the inside of the radio.  You have to remove the top of the radio, and you'll see a printed circuit board, usually on the top left, that will hinge up/open.  On the underside of this circuit board is a glass fuse that is filled with white sand and probably/maybe a green and blue stripe around the glass part.  I forget the amperage rating, but it'll be printed on the metal end caps.  Do replace it with the correct amp fuse so if you short something out again the fuse will blow before something more important in the radio. 
I replaced the fuse, but the radio still doesn't work.

Does the wire that isn't connected to anything have something to do with it??

The multimeter says that power is going to the amplifier through the radio. So I think something is working...?