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#21
Mechanicals / Re: Idle Air Connector Hose Re...
Last post by daantjie - 03 February 2023, 12:57 PMYup these old hoses can be a real bastard to get off. I am assuming you are replacing the hose. If not you should in my opinion. All these old rubber hoses are by now rock hard and all leak.
So assuming you are replacing it, then really there is no need to be too gentle to preserve it. I have found if you can get a 90 degree pick tool under the lip and slide it around, then you can break the seal and slip it off. SOmetimes as well if you can just get a little piece lifted up, then you can jam the nozzle of some spray lube like PB Blaster in there. That stuff works great, it'll run around the lip then on the inside then it should come off.
If you are really stuck, then likely you will have to remove more components to get it off. Might not be a bad idea to do a total refresh. Looks like you have a DJET setup. Check out Mercedessource vids on youtube, Kent had a big recent series on DJET top end. Here is one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GOiKq6J29Zw
He tends to drone and harp on things a bit but he is a wealth of knowledge for sure.
So assuming you are replacing it, then really there is no need to be too gentle to preserve it. I have found if you can get a 90 degree pick tool under the lip and slide it around, then you can break the seal and slip it off. SOmetimes as well if you can just get a little piece lifted up, then you can jam the nozzle of some spray lube like PB Blaster in there. That stuff works great, it'll run around the lip then on the inside then it should come off.
If you are really stuck, then likely you will have to remove more components to get it off. Might not be a bad idea to do a total refresh. Looks like you have a DJET setup. Check out Mercedessource vids on youtube, Kent had a big recent series on DJET top end. Here is one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GOiKq6J29Zw
He tends to drone and harp on things a bit but he is a wealth of knowledge for sure.
#22
Mechanicals / Re: WUR fuel cell height and c...
Last post by raueda1 - 03 February 2023, 10:01 AMQuote from: revilla on 03 February 2023, 12:45 AMThe procedure is correct.I agree. I've been out for a while and it looks like a lot more has gone on and we're now to 2 threads on the topic. Feather535, at this point it might be helpful to take a step back and summarize what's been done thus far and the results to date (though I guess that's mostly "tried XYZ but didn't help"). Otherwise we may end up just repeating ideas that were already tried but lost in much earlier posts. Might make it easier for people to help. Cheers,
BUT...
Think well before tapping on any of the 3 settings points of your WUR.
>>>snip<<<
I suggest we understand where the problem is coming from first, before start tapping in a let's-throw-the-dart-in-a-dark-room approach, cross fingers and get lucky. I have never seen that work before. Low probability. Rather let's understand the root cause of the problem first. Just my suggestion.
#23
Mechanicals / Idle Air Connector Hose Remova...
Last post by nblewi0 - 03 February 2023, 01:30 AMHi all,
Hope everyone is having a happy new year! I'm replacing rubber lines around the top part of my engine and I have a question on removal of one of them. What is the best way to remove the hose in the attached pictures. This is the hose that connects to the idle air connector to the intake via a split hard pipe on my car. It looks like the fuel line that runs above it has been leaking on it and the hose is deteriorated. It looks like I need some crowsfoot wrenches to remove the hard pipe from the intake? It looks like there is only one bolt that holds the actual connector in place but there are quite a few hoses that connect to it. Any thoughts?
Hope everyone is having a happy new year! I'm replacing rubber lines around the top part of my engine and I have a question on removal of one of them. What is the best way to remove the hose in the attached pictures. This is the hose that connects to the idle air connector to the intake via a split hard pipe on my car. It looks like the fuel line that runs above it has been leaking on it and the hose is deteriorated. It looks like I need some crowsfoot wrenches to remove the hard pipe from the intake? It looks like there is only one bolt that holds the actual connector in place but there are quite a few hoses that connect to it. Any thoughts?
#24
Mechanicals / Re: WUR fuel cell height and c...
Last post by revilla - 03 February 2023, 12:45 AMThe procedure is correct.
BUT...
Think well before tapping on any of the 3 settings points of your WUR.
There are especially 3 things to consider before making that decision.
1) How did the WUR ended up in such condition to have 5 bars of CP. It takes a lot of tapping to get there. Never seen one that needed this huge amount of calibration.
2) The procedure is in fact simple. But it requires steady hands to get it right-first-time.
3) What if tapping doesn't solve the problem? You've recently been in the situation.
Tapping in/out for corrections will at one point damage your device. It can take a few adjustments in 40 years. But it's not a robust enough design to get three sessions of tapping a week. It'll certainly get damage under that type of abuse.
But this is your WUR and your car, so it's your decision.
I suggest we understand where the problem is coming from first, before start tapping in a let's-throw-the-dart-in-a-dark-room approach, cross fingers and get lucky. I have never seen that work before. Low probability. Rather let's understand the root cause of the problem first. Just my suggestion.
BUT...
Think well before tapping on any of the 3 settings points of your WUR.
There are especially 3 things to consider before making that decision.
1) How did the WUR ended up in such condition to have 5 bars of CP. It takes a lot of tapping to get there. Never seen one that needed this huge amount of calibration.
2) The procedure is in fact simple. But it requires steady hands to get it right-first-time.
3) What if tapping doesn't solve the problem? You've recently been in the situation.
Tapping in/out for corrections will at one point damage your device. It can take a few adjustments in 40 years. But it's not a robust enough design to get three sessions of tapping a week. It'll certainly get damage under that type of abuse.
But this is your WUR and your car, so it's your decision.
I suggest we understand where the problem is coming from first, before start tapping in a let's-throw-the-dart-in-a-dark-room approach, cross fingers and get lucky. I have never seen that work before. Low probability. Rather let's understand the root cause of the problem first. Just my suggestion.
#25
Mechanicals / Re: Inside the WUR
Last post by Feather535 - 02 February 2023, 10:03 PMQuote from: revilla on 02 February 2023, 04:35 PMYou have isolated your issue (pressure regulator PG).
Probable causes:
- Wrong O-Rings used.
- Wrong re-assembly.
- Too many shims. How many you have in there? Are all of them 0,1mm type?
- Wrong large spring, unlikely I know.
Looks like progress at last!
Before taking it apart, I'll guess that wrong o-rings and wrong reassembly are not the problem, since the CP was the same before I replaced the o-rings. But I'll post pictures and we'll see!
#26
Mechanicals / Re: WUR fuel cell height and c...
Last post by Randys01 - 02 February 2023, 07:24 PMRamiro is correct in his setting up procedure...go with that.
I would suggest...irksome I know...that whilst you have it apart for the tenth time., you check that the metal film valve in the fuel cell has not been damaged. You don't have to remove it from the WUR body...it's 3 or 4 screws to peak a look.
I would suggest...irksome I know...that whilst you have it apart for the tenth time., you check that the metal film valve in the fuel cell has not been damaged. You don't have to remove it from the WUR body...it's 3 or 4 screws to peak a look.
#27
Mechanicals / Re: Inside the WUR
Last post by revilla - 02 February 2023, 04:35 PMHi,
You have isolated your issue (pressure regulator PG).
Please take pictures and post them here.
Probable causes:
- Wrong O-Rings used.
- Wrong re-assembly.
- Too many shims. How many you have in there? Are all of them 0,1mm type?
- Wrong large spring, unlikely I know.
You have isolated your issue (pressure regulator PG).
Please take pictures and post them here.
Probable causes:
- Wrong O-Rings used.
- Wrong re-assembly.
- Too many shims. How many you have in there? Are all of them 0,1mm type?
- Wrong large spring, unlikely I know.
#28
Interiors & Exteriors / Hubcap clamp get loose
Last post by Panzerwagen - 02 February 2023, 04:34 PMHi there!
One clamp of one of my 208S Wheel Hubcap get loose
Any suggestion?
Thanks !
Marcos
One clamp of one of my 208S Wheel Hubcap get loose
Any suggestion?
Thanks !
Marcos
#29
Mechanicals / Re: Inside the WUR
Last post by Feather535 - 02 February 2023, 03:28 PMOK, I did the 3 tests Robert suggested. CP stays above 5 bar when the main return line and the smaller return line to the WUR are loosened and fuel starts to flow out. Loosening the 16mm fitting on the FD does cause the pressure to drop, on the other hand. The more it's loosened, the lower the pressure goes. This also causes the pump to run faster, probably trying to maintain pressure.
So what does this mean? I already replaced the 3 o-rings on the assembly attached to that 16mm hex head.
So what does this mean? I already replaced the 3 o-rings on the assembly attached to that 16mm hex head.
#30
Mechanicals / Re: WUR fuel cell height and c...
Last post by Feather535 - 02 February 2023, 01:03 PMQuote from: ramiro on 01 February 2023, 08:17 AMIf the Pressure is also 5.5 when the WUR is warm it makes no sense to change that pin , because it only affects the cold pressure.
If you are sure that everything around the WUR is ok suggest doing the procedure i described above to adjust the pressures.
Makes sense, thanks.