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Test Drive / Re: 74 SEL engine swap
« Last post by Mergyver on 17 May 2019, 09:55 AM »
Hey guys thanks for your responses. Sorry I have been absent for a few days. You guys threw out a couple of questions so let me hit those first.

I like the ride and most of all the looks of the car. However there is only so much you can do with a D-jet 450. I looked for modified heads and longer duration cams but couldn't find anything practical. I did see a reference to an AMG head from that time period but could not find anyone reproducing it or modifying heads. Then came the D-jet problem. Even if I could get ported heads and a larger cam I couldn't find a way to modify the D-Jet fuel mapping.

To Pete49's point I am looking for a way to transplant an engine without modifying the frame or frame mounts. In fact I would keep the old engine that way if someone wanted to restore it back to stock they could.

I like the way Scotty is thinking. I used to own a E55 and that was a great normally aspirated engine and trans combination. I don't want turbos to complicated. I would like well north of 300hp though. I think my E55 was rated around 340hp. So I was thinking about an E55 swap but I have not seen many of those cars around much less salvaged engines and ECM's from them.

So then I landed on the GM LS motors. I have modified and retuned them before for another car I own (2009 Pontiac G8). They are relatively cheap and easy to find in salvage yards. Modified heads and cams are cheap and plentiful, the ECM's can be completely remapped to produce torque and HP at what ever level you want. They are all aluminum and really light. Stock exhaust headers are cheap and compact. All in all they just seem like the way to go for a someone without unlimited resources.

I am also thinking a GM LS motor would open up a lot of choices around transmissions also. I am thinking the stock transmission is probably not capable of holding more than 300 HP.

So that is my thinking so far. I am going to continue to look into it. As always I love the insight I get from this forum so all comments are welcome.

Mechanicals / Re: 280SE correct ignition timing
« Last post by revilla on 17 May 2019, 05:03 AM »
Thanks Rumb

what does that mean?
possible root cause?
where/what should I look at?

Help is appreciated

Mechanicals / Re: 280SE correct ignition timing
« Last post by rumb on 17 May 2019, 04:56 AM »
Assuming your vac lines are connected correctly I think this indicates your mechanical advance does not work.
Mechanicals / Re: 280SE correct ignition timing
« Last post by revilla on 17 May 2019, 02:24 AM »
VERY CLEAR !!! Thanks again. :)

I found a problem while doing the adjustment.  I must be doing something wrong.  When I set up the advance @3000RPMs 30° it's impossible later to get the spec value at TDC +/- 3° for idle.

I followed these steps when adjusting the timing:

Start engine
Disconnect both vacuum lines
Accelerate speed to 3000
Rotate distributor until advance reaches 30°
Back to idle
Reconnect both vacuum lines
But reading @ idle = 22°
Left both vacuum lines connected
Rotate distributor until reaching TDC = engine not happy

So I can’t get TDC at idle, not even close, after setting 30° at 3000.

I have vacuum in both lines.  There’s vacuum at idle in the hose going behind the pod.  There’s vacuum at the other hose going on front of the pod when at 3000.

I tested the pod and there’s no air leak.  The arm moves freely when vacuum is applied and it holds it long term meaning no leaks. 

What's interesting is that when I accelerate from idle to 3000RPMs and back, there's no noticeable changes in the advance figure.  It barely fluctuates around 30° no matter the RPMs.  Then when I reconnected the lines it goes down to 22° but never lower towards the aim of TDC +/- 3°

So I left it at 22° idle (30° 3000) where the engines seems stable and happy with no misfiring.

Anybody had the same problem?
Am I doing something wrong? 

Mechanicals / Re: No high blower speed
« Last post by thegreg92 on 16 May 2019, 09:43 PM »
The blower only runs at max speed on the defrost setting, bypassing the resistor pack. The high or low settings will run thru the various stages in the resistor pack.

I’ve had luck wiring up a relay for the blower that bypasses the resistor when using the high and low settings. Def a game changer in the Arizona summers
Shop / Re: Parting out W126 280SE
« Last post by rumb on 16 May 2019, 05:05 PM »
what color is the interior?  looking for grey front speaker cover -left side.
Mechanicals / Re: A/C and Heater battling it out...
« Last post by atatexan on 16 May 2019, 03:05 PM »
Excellent article and responses. Have this issue on my 350SE. The problem slowly got worse in a way my tech thinks is a valve vacuum problem: under heavy acceleration the heat would mysteriously come on overpowering the A/C for a few minutes. Now it is total air temperature war. My guy says M-B was very worried about hypothermia in the event of a system failure. My temporary fix is to tie off the heater valve arm (rt. side firewall location) to stop the war at least for the summer. 
Shop / Re: Parting out W126 280SE
« Last post by Squiggle Dog on 16 May 2019, 12:24 PM »
I hear you on W126 rust... just look at what I've found on my roommate's daily driver.

Yours looks like an excellent parts car if no one is brave enough to fix the rust.
Mechanicals / Re: Coolant on oil pan - Long time storage prep to run again
« Last post by Trapo on 16 May 2019, 11:48 AM »
Hola Trapo !
Welcome to the forum.
You’ve come to the right place for advice.
I didn’t see many W116s in Spain the years I lived there. So worth preserving yours...!
Yes please, let the forum know about the outcomes. And Randy thanks for the procedure, and hopefully not many of us have to use it as not many “20-years-sleeping-beauties” left.
Good weekend everyone

You are right. There aren't that many around, so info is hard to be found. Will try keeping it up in top shape.
Shop / Parting out W126 280SE
« Last post by ZCarFan on 16 May 2019, 10:31 AM »
Looking at parting out my 126.  Found a fair amount of rust under the battery on my 126.  There's even a hole in the "frame" rail just as it goes horizontal off the firewall.  There's way too many issues to fix to keep it around though it's driveable.

 If anyone here can make use of the driveline or other parts I'd be willing to let it go at low prices. 

1984 grey market car.  The only changes on Import seem to be a switch to sealed beam headlights  and a MPH speedometer.  No catalyst. .Running Euro-spec M110.  Have fairly new tires on 14" Bundts.  215/70/14.  Still tagged and insured if a test drive is warranted.

Also has ABS and a sanden type ac compressor with an aftermarket compessor bracket.

I'm located what I'd call the northwest Atlanta exurbs.  Not looking to ship anything.
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