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#11
Mechanicals / Re: Just secured a 450 SEL 6.9...
Last post by rumb - 05 February 2023, 09:41 AMThere is a DIN survey that list all hardware.
I have a digital copy if anyone is interested.
https://www.authenticclassics.com/Illustrated-DIN-Survey-DIN-Part-Number-Conversion-p/auth-006028.htm
MB part numbering explained
https://www.benzworld.org/threads/mercedes-benz-part-numbering-system.1825929/
I have a digital copy if anyone is interested.
https://www.authenticclassics.com/Illustrated-DIN-Survey-DIN-Part-Number-Conversion-p/auth-006028.htm
MB part numbering explained
https://www.benzworld.org/threads/mercedes-benz-part-numbering-system.1825929/
#12
Mechanicals / Re: Just secured a 450 SEL 6.9...
Last post by andrewk - 04 February 2023, 10:04 PMA little bit of time spent waiting for parts and a weekend away in the country delayed some work on the car.
I wish Mercedes published a description of their bolts other than "bolt" (e.g. M12 x 40 mm x 1.0 - 10.9 Zinc) so I didn't have to remove something from the car, go to the bolt shop then reinstall some time later, or wait for an order from Würth or worse, Mercedes.
So, i'm going to start a catalogue of the bolts, their locations and size (and indicative torque value with a technical reasoning) - coupled with a cross reference to MB part numbers, which in many cases are no longer available. Such was the case for the differential mount to chassis bolts, only two were available at the time of purchase. They come pre-coated with a thread locking compound and should not be re-used after removal, especially when used on drivetrain, suspension or braking system mountings. The bolts from the differential to the mount were a whopping $29 USD/piece from Mercedes Classic. Around 3x what a typical high tensile (10.9/ ASTM A490,A354, Grade 8D) bolt might cost.
So, I have re-assembled the fuel system, the refurbished rear suspension valve, installed a new differential mount and serviced the differential. I carefully cleaned out the brake fluid reservoir which had a lot of black disintegrated rubber particles in it. It is very important that these particles don't end up in the callipers or master cylinder. They are likely from the seals to the master cylinder and also the seal inside the cap. I have a replacement master cylinder to install once the system is flushed out with plenty of ATE SL brake fluid.
The process to clean the tank was as follows:
Emptied old brake fluid (yuck), flushed with small quantities of absolute ethanol until blue dye from fluid was removed, used a degreaser compound (Decon 90) on the inside and out with warm water (fill, shake and drain a few times).
Then I carefully used acetone on a long cotton bud to directly remove the black stuff which was accessible. Following that, I filled and rinsed several times with deionised, ultrafiltered water, several times with the absolute ethanol, then blew out the housing with compressed air, left to air dry. I'll check the float switches with a multimeter and replace the lid which is still available from ATE (PN: 0004315433 - 64), as are the two grommets (PN: 0004310950).
I wish Mercedes published a description of their bolts other than "bolt" (e.g. M12 x 40 mm x 1.0 - 10.9 Zinc) so I didn't have to remove something from the car, go to the bolt shop then reinstall some time later, or wait for an order from Würth or worse, Mercedes.
So, i'm going to start a catalogue of the bolts, their locations and size (and indicative torque value with a technical reasoning) - coupled with a cross reference to MB part numbers, which in many cases are no longer available. Such was the case for the differential mount to chassis bolts, only two were available at the time of purchase. They come pre-coated with a thread locking compound and should not be re-used after removal, especially when used on drivetrain, suspension or braking system mountings. The bolts from the differential to the mount were a whopping $29 USD/piece from Mercedes Classic. Around 3x what a typical high tensile (10.9/ ASTM A490,A354, Grade 8D) bolt might cost.
So, I have re-assembled the fuel system, the refurbished rear suspension valve, installed a new differential mount and serviced the differential. I carefully cleaned out the brake fluid reservoir which had a lot of black disintegrated rubber particles in it. It is very important that these particles don't end up in the callipers or master cylinder. They are likely from the seals to the master cylinder and also the seal inside the cap. I have a replacement master cylinder to install once the system is flushed out with plenty of ATE SL brake fluid.
The process to clean the tank was as follows:
Emptied old brake fluid (yuck), flushed with small quantities of absolute ethanol until blue dye from fluid was removed, used a degreaser compound (Decon 90) on the inside and out with warm water (fill, shake and drain a few times).
Then I carefully used acetone on a long cotton bud to directly remove the black stuff which was accessible. Following that, I filled and rinsed several times with deionised, ultrafiltered water, several times with the absolute ethanol, then blew out the housing with compressed air, left to air dry. I'll check the float switches with a multimeter and replace the lid which is still available from ATE (PN: 0004315433 - 64), as are the two grommets (PN: 0004310950).
#13
Mechanicals / Re: Inside the WUR
Last post by Feather535 - 04 February 2023, 04:37 PMThere are 2 threads going on this topic, so to avoid further confusion, I'm starting a new one combining this one and "WUR fuel cell height and control pressure". Stay tuned.
#14
Mechanicals / Re: WUR fuel cell height and c...
Last post by Feather535 - 04 February 2023, 04:32 PMQuote from: raueda1 on 03 February 2023, 10:01 AMit looks like a lot more has gone on and we're now to 2 threads on the topic. Feather535, at this point it might be helpful to take a step back and summarize what's been done thus far and the results to date
Good idea. I'm going to start a new thread combining this one and Inside the WUR and provide a summary of what I've done so far. Stay tuned.
#16
Shop / Gorgeous 450SEL
Last post by rumb - 03 February 2023, 08:26 PM #17
Mechanicals / Re: Idle Air Connector Hose Re...
Last post by daantjie - 03 February 2023, 04:41 PMNice 
#18
Mechanicals / Re: Idle Air Connector Hose Re...
Last post by nblewi0 - 03 February 2023, 04:26 PMDaniel,
Thanks for the quick reply! I did replace the hose. It was really brittle. I actually ended up cutting it off with a box cutter and then I was able to slide the new one in without removing any of the other components.
I have watched that video from MercedesSource. It helped me immensely with this task. I'm replacing all of the rubber components and I am testing/cleaning my injectors at the same time. It has been a fun learning experience for me.
Thanks again,
Nat
Thanks for the quick reply! I did replace the hose. It was really brittle. I actually ended up cutting it off with a box cutter and then I was able to slide the new one in without removing any of the other components.
I have watched that video from MercedesSource. It helped me immensely with this task. I'm replacing all of the rubber components and I am testing/cleaning my injectors at the same time. It has been a fun learning experience for me.
Thanks again,
Nat
#19
Mechanicals / Re: Idle Air Connector Hose Re...
Last post by daantjie - 03 February 2023, 12:57 PMYup these old hoses can be a real bastard to get off. I am assuming you are replacing the hose. If not you should in my opinion. All these old rubber hoses are by now rock hard and all leak.
So assuming you are replacing it, then really there is no need to be too gentle to preserve it. I have found if you can get a 90 degree pick tool under the lip and slide it around, then you can break the seal and slip it off. SOmetimes as well if you can just get a little piece lifted up, then you can jam the nozzle of some spray lube like PB Blaster in there. That stuff works great, it'll run around the lip then on the inside then it should come off.
If you are really stuck, then likely you will have to remove more components to get it off. Might not be a bad idea to do a total refresh. Looks like you have a DJET setup. Check out Mercedessource vids on youtube, Kent had a big recent series on DJET top end. Here is one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GOiKq6J29Zw
He tends to drone and harp on things a bit but he is a wealth of knowledge for sure.
So assuming you are replacing it, then really there is no need to be too gentle to preserve it. I have found if you can get a 90 degree pick tool under the lip and slide it around, then you can break the seal and slip it off. SOmetimes as well if you can just get a little piece lifted up, then you can jam the nozzle of some spray lube like PB Blaster in there. That stuff works great, it'll run around the lip then on the inside then it should come off.
If you are really stuck, then likely you will have to remove more components to get it off. Might not be a bad idea to do a total refresh. Looks like you have a DJET setup. Check out Mercedessource vids on youtube, Kent had a big recent series on DJET top end. Here is one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GOiKq6J29Zw
He tends to drone and harp on things a bit but he is a wealth of knowledge for sure.
#20
Mechanicals / Re: WUR fuel cell height and c...
Last post by raueda1 - 03 February 2023, 10:01 AMQuote from: revilla on 03 February 2023, 12:45 AMThe procedure is correct.I agree. I've been out for a while and it looks like a lot more has gone on and we're now to 2 threads on the topic. Feather535, at this point it might be helpful to take a step back and summarize what's been done thus far and the results to date (though I guess that's mostly "tried XYZ but didn't help"). Otherwise we may end up just repeating ideas that were already tried but lost in much earlier posts. Might make it easier for people to help. Cheers,
BUT...
Think well before tapping on any of the 3 settings points of your WUR.
>>>snip<<<
I suggest we understand where the problem is coming from first, before start tapping in a let's-throw-the-dart-in-a-dark-room approach, cross fingers and get lucky. I have never seen that work before. Low probability. Rather let's understand the root cause of the problem first. Just my suggestion.