- Welcome to The Forum.
Recent posts
#11
Mechanicals / Re: W116 450SEL AC conversion ...
Last post by daantjie - 13 September 2024, 11:51 AMMaybe just for clarification do you currently run R12 or R134a?
From my limited experience R12 does cool better than R134a.
You need to read and tell us the temperature at the vents you are seeing as a baseline as stating it's "very bad" for your situation might be quite acceptable to others of course.
From my limited experience R12 does cool better than R134a.
You need to read and tell us the temperature at the vents you are seeing as a baseline as stating it's "very bad" for your situation might be quite acceptable to others of course.
#12
Mechanicals / M110 engine timing setup
Last post by fichtl500 - 13 September 2024, 11:14 AMI need your advice, I don't understand the technical manual. Do I have the chain set up correctly?
M110
The manual tells me that the DTC mark is on the pin. DTC is not 0/0
Please confirm so I can continue composing.
(I also don't understand how DTC and BDC can be side by side. When the real difference between them is 180°)
.
M110
The manual tells me that the DTC mark is on the pin. DTC is not 0/0
Please confirm so I can continue composing.
(I also don't understand how DTC and BDC can be side by side. When the real difference between them is 180°)
.
#13
Mechanicals / W116 450SEL AC conversion to R...
Last post by bnunes39 - 12 September 2024, 11:55 PMHi,I have a W116 450SEL Japan specs, the AC performance in very, bad, I have read about the R12 if replaced with R134a will cause this issue, I need help as to type of Compressor, drier, condenser, need to be replaced to get the AC to bring a good enough cooling so as the car can be driven , temperature here reach 47C during summer and go even higher, I got another A6 used, replaced the condenser parellel which I got from a W211 and modified to fit, replaced the expansion valve, but no improvement, please can someone advice .
Thank you.
Sebastian.
Thank you.
Sebastian.
#14
The ORG / Re: Where was your 116 recentl...
Last post by ptashek - 12 September 2024, 10:01 PMGreat to see your car on the road here!
Fits perfectly into the landscape, and Tipp is a great part of the country to cruise around. The Midlands are somewhat underappreciated. The area around Aherlow is one of my favourite spots in the country, probably only second to the Wild Atlantic Way route.
On my end, I've been travelling so much this year,that the only time Goldie was out from under the cover since your visit, was for antifreeze and oil change.
But at least I'm taking the blue W124 to mainland for a few weeks soon. Got tired of flying
Fits perfectly into the landscape, and Tipp is a great part of the country to cruise around. The Midlands are somewhat underappreciated. The area around Aherlow is one of my favourite spots in the country, probably only second to the Wild Atlantic Way route.
On my end, I've been travelling so much this year,that the only time Goldie was out from under the cover since your visit, was for antifreeze and oil change.
But at least I'm taking the blue W124 to mainland for a few weeks soon. Got tired of flying
#15
Shop / Re: W116 Euro headlights, left...
Last post by floyd111 - 12 September 2024, 05:53 PMI saw the well-known NOS seller in Argentina recently sold the cheapest SINGLE head light on offer on ebay for 600 usd plus shipping. That is considered cheap now?
Next best offer starts bidding at 1000usd for a single one. That just ain't right.
If anyone on the forum needs a left/right pair, euro-type I offer a set of 2 NOS headlights, plus 2 orange indicator assy's, for 1000usd all-in. Shipping worlwide is likely to remain under 70usd.
All the best!
Stan
Next best offer starts bidding at 1000usd for a single one. That just ain't right.
If anyone on the forum needs a left/right pair, euro-type I offer a set of 2 NOS headlights, plus 2 orange indicator assy's, for 1000usd all-in. Shipping worlwide is likely to remain under 70usd.
All the best!
Stan
#16
Shop / Re: 70's Mercedes-Benz watches...
Last post by floyd111 - 12 September 2024, 05:40 PMLongines was sold.
Thanks a lot. Your support is appreciated!
Thanks a lot. Your support is appreciated!
#17
Shop / Re: NOS baffle plate for W116 ...
Last post by floyd111 - 12 September 2024, 05:38 PMSold!. Again, with thanks for the support!
#18
Shop / Re: Rear bumper face bar for s...
Last post by floyd111 - 12 September 2024, 05:36 PMSold! With thanks to the buyer for keeping the lights on! 
#19
Interiors & Exteriors / I made a template for the rear...
Last post by olives17 - 12 September 2024, 11:23 AMHi guys.
TLDR:
Attached is the a CAD drawing of the rear jacking point. The drawing is based on hand measurements I made my myself using two butchered jacking points and fits my car and all measurements and angles are slightly off! If you want a properly measured and constructed one, contact Rumb on this forum.
In my quest to restore my w116 I made up a drawing for the rear jacking point as mine were gone. I would buy a new one, but being a student and NOK->USD exchange rate being what its is, I tried to make my own.
The caveat to this is that the dimensions and angles of pretty much every measurement is off, so the fit is "such-and-such". The drawing was also made to fit my inner rocker, where the bottom "floor" and one inch of the "wall" was completely gone along the whole length of the car, so in my particular case, the height of the jacking point is 149mm, yours will be different. It also designed using 2mm (12ga) steel, the original was 1.5mm, which is not readily available in Norway, so 2mm it was..
If you would like a rear jacking point that has been properly measured out and put together, I suggest you PM Rumb here on this forum. He has taken his sweet time to measure and draw up the jacking point correctly and sells them for a very nice price! Its also nice to support forum members who help the w116 community!!
The drawing enclosed is not a pretty one, I made it for myself to fit my car. On sheet 1 there are some dimensions and how it should look once fully bent. On sheet two is the template, cut it out with sciccors and glue it to the steel sheet and bend using the bend lines. Its made for A4 paper, and is 1:1 scale.
Drill ø5mm holes where marked, up to the lines to help relieve the bends.
I would recommend drilling the ø5 and ø20mm holes first, then bending the tabs, then the beads, then clamp the piece using two 25x25mm angle-iron in the vice and bend the main folds.
On sheet 1 there is a hole marked "ø4", this is supposed to be "ø8".
This drawing does not include the pipe, only the "shell"
The crosses at the ends of each bead is not to be drilled, only for clearly showing where it ends.
TLDR:
Attached is the a CAD drawing of the rear jacking point. The drawing is based on hand measurements I made my myself using two butchered jacking points and fits my car and all measurements and angles are slightly off! If you want a properly measured and constructed one, contact Rumb on this forum.
In my quest to restore my w116 I made up a drawing for the rear jacking point as mine were gone. I would buy a new one, but being a student and NOK->USD exchange rate being what its is, I tried to make my own.
The caveat to this is that the dimensions and angles of pretty much every measurement is off, so the fit is "such-and-such". The drawing was also made to fit my inner rocker, where the bottom "floor" and one inch of the "wall" was completely gone along the whole length of the car, so in my particular case, the height of the jacking point is 149mm, yours will be different. It also designed using 2mm (12ga) steel, the original was 1.5mm, which is not readily available in Norway, so 2mm it was..
If you would like a rear jacking point that has been properly measured out and put together, I suggest you PM Rumb here on this forum. He has taken his sweet time to measure and draw up the jacking point correctly and sells them for a very nice price! Its also nice to support forum members who help the w116 community!!
The drawing enclosed is not a pretty one, I made it for myself to fit my car. On sheet 1 there are some dimensions and how it should look once fully bent. On sheet two is the template, cut it out with sciccors and glue it to the steel sheet and bend using the bend lines. Its made for A4 paper, and is 1:1 scale.
Drill ø5mm holes where marked, up to the lines to help relieve the bends.
I would recommend drilling the ø5 and ø20mm holes first, then bending the tabs, then the beads, then clamp the piece using two 25x25mm angle-iron in the vice and bend the main folds.
On sheet 1 there is a hole marked "ø4", this is supposed to be "ø8".
This drawing does not include the pipe, only the "shell"
The crosses at the ends of each bead is not to be drilled, only for clearly showing where it ends.
#20
Mechanicals / Re: 6.9 Stumble at idle and ha...
Last post by raueda1 - 12 September 2024, 09:17 AMQuote from: Rolo on 11 September 2024, 11:59 AMThanks for asking. He adjusted the throttle linkage.Seems like something missing in this story. Randys01 is almost certainly right about knocking something loose IMO (and he knows way more than I do!). But back to the beginning. You say car was running well before except for being weak at full throttle? Was this something that happened all of a sudden and the original reason to go in? In any case, before going back, I'd pull off the air cleaner and take a close look at everything. The cause may be obvious. Finally, did he work on anything other than the throttle? If so he may have reconnected something wrong. You may also want to have a look at THIS old thread. Cheers,