Recent posts

#1

Shop / Re: Looking for a W116 etc to ...

Last post by Feather535 - Yesterday at 06:21 PM

Too late to help, but you could have rented my 280SE.  It's located near Reno and it's not a car that's "too nice" for where you were going.

#2

Test Drive / Re: My 6.9's

Last post by rumb - Yesterday at 04:28 PM

Ha, they raised the price to 350 euro! 

#3

Test Drive / Re: The "Goldilocks" restorati...

Last post by ptashek - Yesterday at 03:13 PM

He Lukas,

I just wanted to re-browse your Goldilocks pics, but they seem gone?

Maybe you could re-post some of them, especially the ones taken when you finished the job..
Would love to have another look.

Hey Stan, if you DM me your email address and I'll reshare the folder. I've removed most of the public shares as a few enterprising workshops stole the photos and presented them as their work.

#4

Mechanicals / How do ignition coils fail?

Last post by raueda1 - Yesterday at 01:23 PM

I'm finally doing an ignition tuneup - wires, plugs, cap and rotor.  To be clear, in general the car runs well.  However, the idle is sometimes lumpy, other times not, sometimes missing a little, other times not.  My snap judgement is always to blame K-jet, WUR, etc etc but it's all well set up.  Meanwhile, I know I don't have exactly the right plugs.  At the time I got resistor plugs.  Wrong, I know, but there was some reason and they were an improvement over what was there so I put that issue on the back burner.  Probably not right wires either, so time to do it all properly. 

But what about the coil?  I've always assumed that coils are a kind of "binary" item, either good or no good.  But is this strictly true?  Can an old coil be compromised somehow, but not so much that car doesn't run at all?  Or, for example, be "weak" at idle but OK as engine revs?  If so then I'd replace on principal.  Thanks and cheers,

#5

Mechanicals / Re: 6.9 cam timing marks

Last post by ramiro - Yesterday at 12:59 PM

Ok to make it clear :
All timing Marks aligned :
Driver side (left) intake valve opens(2mm) ~ 20 after TDC
Passenger side(right) intake valve opens(2mm) ~ 5 after TDC

Passenger side one toth retarded and timing mark for that cam aligns at 15 degress after tdc on the crankshaft:

Driver side (left) intake valve opens(2mm) ~ 20 after TDC
Passenger side(right) intake valve opens(2mm) ~23 after TDC

So i am really confused if mercedes machined the groove for the camshaft gear wrong on 1 cam

#6

Mechanicals / Re: 6.9 cam timing marks

Last post by rumb - Yesterday at 12:32 PM

Im a bit confused by some of your statements.

"All 3 timing marks are perfectly aligned"
and
"my chain is stretched around 6 - 8 degrees on the driver side and around 10 -12 on the other"


With 10-12 stretch (that is the spec limit) it seems to be time for a new chain. It's normal for each side to be different on an older engine.  Even MB expects ~4 degrees stretch after 20K.If 
you use keys at some point it wouldnt hurt to add a degree or 2 initially.

BTW on my 300se a new chain I could definitely feel better power.

#7

Mechanicals / Re: 6.9 cam timing marks

Last post by ramiro - Yesterday at 12:00 PM

Yes i followed 05-215 exactly also changed to lifter to manual adjustable ones.
My marks are exatcly centered , i would even say that in the other thread on mark is 0.1 mm off that my isn't.
I retarted the passenger side cam 1 tooth but now it seems to be at ~ 28 after tdc also far away from spec(14 at 2 mm intake valve lift) i don't know why it is not at around 20 because 5 + 18(1 tooth) should be 23 not nearly 30.

One more thing when i got the car the same cam that is now out off adjustment was 1 tooth off the timing mark and i corrected(but only checked the mark not the actual timing) it suspecting that i found an issue but now it seems that it was maybe more correct.

EDIT:
I rotated the engine 1 more around with the chain tensioner in place and now it is around 25 also when on the mark it shows 15 Degress off same like when i got the car , this setup actually makes much more sense it would mean that my chain is stretched around 6 - 8 degress one the driver side and around 10 -12 on the other , but i still don't understand why the mark is not matching ?

#8

Mechanicals / Re: 6.9 cam timing marks

Last post by rumb - Yesterday at 11:26 AM

Are you following procedure 05-215 in the 100.985 engine manual to check valve opening? It mentions valve lift of 2mm when checking.

#9

Mechanicals / Re: 6.9 cam timing marks

Last post by raueda1 - Yesterday at 10:07 AM

Some cam mark pix HERE with a lot more details on cam timing.  Might be helpful....  Cheers,

#10

Mechanicals / Re: 6.9 cam timing marks

Last post by daantjie - Yesterday at 09:37 AM

Maybe post pics of your timing marks.  It's been a while since I looked at this stuff but as I recall the driver side (LHD) cam must line up with damper mark at 0.

There are offset keys available to finesse the timing. Do a search I'm pretty sure some members have run into this issue.