Recent posts

#1

Mechanicals / Re: Steering wheel push/pull p...

Last post by JP - Today at 08:35 AM

Thanks Daniel, that is exactly the idea! Have a great weekend.

Jp

Nice one!  Also good on you for closing the loop on the thread.  Often we become so embroiled in the fix that we forget to share the learning

#2

Mechanicals / Re: Steering wheel push/pull p...

Last post by daantjie - Yesterday at 08:09 PM

Nice one!  Also good on you for closing the loop on the thread.  Often we become so embroiled in the fix that we forget to share the learning

#3

Mechanicals / Re: Steering wheel push/pull p...

Last post by JP - Yesterday at 07:12 PM

Just in case this is helpful to someone, I solved this issue today. The bolt of the steering coupler closest to the steering box was loose due to lack of thread locker fluid. I had someone replace the coupler for me about 9 months ago and didn't check whether the new bolts had thread locker from factory or the mechanic applied some himself. Anyway, worked that out and gave the bolt a good tightening and now the steering wheel is sitting nicely in position -no more in/out play.

Cheers,

jp

[Any K-jet car that has sat for extended periods generally needs the entire fuel system gone over.]

#4

Mechanicals / Re: 1979 280SE New to Forum

Last post by raueda1 - Yesterday at 09:38 AM

If you are lucky, 4 year old bad fuel is the problem. Any K-jet car that has sat for extended periods generally needs the entire fuel system gone over. Drain fuel, replace filter in tank, replace filter by pump, replace all rubber hoses that look deteriorated.

Testing fuel pressures is going to be recommended.  Your Fuel distributor and WUR may likely need rebuilt -CIS Flowtech is the best place.

K-jet is the sum of all it's parts: all must be working correctly.

You already know you have spark, so now work on fuel system.

Does your air plate move down with light resistance and spring back? With the ignition on if you press down on it you should hear the injectors.  You can loosen line at injector and see if any fuel comes out.

Meanwhile lots of good reading on this site, dont forget the tech manual here.  https://www.w116.org/tech/

^^^Yes, all that. Absolutely DO drain and replace old fuel.  Rebuild the delivery system rubber stuff and go from there.  If you don't now, you will later and you don't want a fuel leak back there.  You're absolutely going to need the fuel pressure kit.  And go through the process systematically.  Jumping around will eventually make you crazy.  I'm a big fan of the CIS manual:  HERE.  There's another Kjet tech doc to that deep dives it, but the first is simpler and, most important, sequential.  Good luck and cheers, 

#5

Mechanicals / Re: Fuel line on fuel pressure...

Last post by NalgeneSF - Yesterday at 06:37 AM

Thank you! That did it

#6

Mechanicals / Re: Lazy alternator light

Last post by rumb - 05 September 2024, 02:08 PM

Rebuilding is not expensive, mostly labor.  The only thing you prob need is VR/brushes, but also check if where brushes ride is still good.  I had one that was all worn out there.  I also found a bad bearing after it was taken apart. I think I have an extra bearing somewhere if needed.

Extra work to find original VR,  as new one is not identical if you are a purist.  The rubber boot is also hard to find exact replace, though subs are out there. Again I think I have a spare.

#7

Mechanicals / Re: 1979 280SE New to Forum

Last post by rumb - 05 September 2024, 02:02 PM

If you are lucky, 4 year old bad fuel is the problem. Any K-jet car that has sat for extended periods generally needs the entire fuel system gone over.  Drain fuel, replace filter in tank, replace filter by pump, replace all rubber hoses that look deteriorated.

Testing fuel pressures is going to be recommended.  Your Fuel distributor and WUR may likely need rebuilt -CIS Flowtech is the best place.

K-jet is the sum of all it's parts: all must be working correctly.

You already know you have spark, so now work on fuel system.

Does your air plate move down with light resistance and spring back? With the ignition on if you press down on it you should hear the injectors.  You can loosen line at injector and see if any fuel comes out.

Meanwhile lots of good reading on this site, dont forget the tech manual here.


https://www.w116.org/tech/

#8

Mechanicals / Re: Lazy alternator light

Last post by raueda1 - 05 September 2024, 08:25 AM

Thanks folks.  The alternator is a newish Bosch replacement obviously replaced shortly before I got the car, it's clearly not a rebuild of the orig and certainly not the proper red 6.9 unit.  But I've got a low mileage 6.9 spare in all my junk so I guess I'll just swap that.  Now I guess the question is whether it's worth getting that one preemptively rebuilt first.  I have no reason to think there's anything wrong with it and I'd rather not spend the $$$.  OTOH......  Thanks again and cheers, 

#9

Mechanicals / 1979 280SE New to Forum

Last post by ayhanlambaz - 05 September 2024, 05:25 AM

Hello for the sunshine state.

I recently acquired a 1979 280SE and it's been sitting for over 4 years. The car with new battery turns over and starts for 5 seconds then goes off.

Any recommendations specific to this model ?
Beside oil and filters and plugs should I drain fuel ?

Would appreciate a list of what you would do if it was your new baby?

#10

Mechanicals / Re: M110 Mercedes Benz D-jetro...

Last post by mrkozzy - 05 September 2024, 04:30 AM

Hi Ortolani.

Your comment  "I started fine-tuning the Trigger points".

  I havent touched my trigger points in 40 years, even tho I have a spare set somewhere.

Pls explain what you did as I am curious.