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#1
Mechanicals / Re: 280 SE fuel level sender -...
Last post by Feather535 - Today at 08:19 AM
Quote from: revilla on Yesterday at 12:05 AMYou essentially have only 2 wires in the unit (that seems like 3). 1 copper like and 1 thin silver like. The latter starts at W, loops around the bottom base and continues on up until reaching the "cap"

This is the key!  I see now that the silver wire is a loop.  Before I tested continuity on each leg of the loop relative to a different terminal.  Now measuring only from terminal W, there is continuity all along the wire until it returns to the bottom of the cap, but not between the wire and terminal G. So I think the conclusion is the same: there is a broken connection between the post for terminal G on the outside and the copper terminals on the inside that the wire is soldered to. 

How to repair that is the question.  It looks like it would involve disassembling and reassembling that side of the cap == lots of time.
#2
Shop / Re: aircon interior control un...
Last post by mrkozzy - Today at 06:21 AM
Hello friend
any idea how much to post it to Dublin in Ireland?
#3
Mechanicals / Re: Parts Search/Valve Cover V...
Last post by gurrier - Today at 02:10 AM
or self amalgamating tape
#4
Mechanicals / Re: Parts Search/Valve Cover V...
Last post by daantjie - Yesterday at 06:57 PM
Indeed I would think if you splice it neatly with a short length of thin walled pipe on the inside and seal well with silicone type black sealant no one will be any the wiser.
#5
Mechanicals / Re: Parts Search/Valve Cover V...
Last post by john erbe - Yesterday at 06:20 PM
Update. Possible solution using same part off the 126. In attached photo all are the front valve cover breather hose. Bottom off 6.9. Center off 126 Part No. 116 o 094 05 91 as well as upper 117 094 983. Only after arriving home from Pic N Pull did I notice they were of different length. First attempted to fit the longer. Tried muscling it on. Not quite there. Hose comes with I believe a factory bend and while the the diameters on all are correct size the bell ends are of different length/depth. Solution would be to cut a short piece out of the longer and add to the shorter as the ends of the later appear the same as those of the 6.9.
#6
Interiors & Exteriors / Re: 16 vs 15" Bundt Wheels - D...
Last post by Neil4speed - Yesterday at 05:11 PM
That looks fabulous! I have soft regrets going for a square set up.

Neil
#7
Mechanicals / Re: 280 SE fuel level sender -...
Last post by revilla - Yesterday at 12:05 AM
Ok let's go back to basics here.
You essentially have only 2 wires in the unit (that seems like 3). 1 copper like and 1 thin silver like. The latter starts at W, loops around the bottom base and continues on up until reaching the "cap". Send us a picture on your unit please. The only thing you have to do is making sure there's continuity all along those 2 (yes I wrote 2) wires using the method (sliding probe until continuity is broken) described by rumb.
 What do you get as result?
I think you're measuring continuity in the circuit of red-light-reserve when the floater is NOT in the lowest rest position, which is PERFECTLY NORMAL as it's designed to be. You will obtain around 80 ohms in that circuit but ONLY when the floater is in contact with its bottom base. If you don't, either your red-light wire is broken or the contacts at the base are corroded/dirty. Please report back your observations.
#8
Mechanicals / Re: 280 SE fuel level sender -...
Last post by Feather535 - 04 October 2022, 09:35 PM
Quote from: rumb on 04 October 2022, 10:19 AMPut your vom probe on one post and move the other along the wire until you find the break in continuity.

OK, the wire from the T post, which I believe is the ground (there is no terminal 31) has continuity with the terminal along its entire length.  There is also continuity between that post and the "cap" that everything attaches to.  The copper wire that I installed temporarily on the W terminal also have continuity with the post from top to bottom.  But the G post for the gauge circuit isn't in continuity with any part of the wire or even with the terminal inside the cap that the wire is soldered to.  So it seems like contact must be broken between the post on the outside of the cap and the terminal on the inside.  That sounds hard to repair...
#9
Interiors & Exteriors / Re: 16 vs 15" Bundt Wheels - D...
Last post by BMA - 04 October 2022, 12:19 PM
Hi Guys,
I recently installed 16" Maxilite wheels. 7j front with 205/ 55 tyres and 8j at the back with 225/ 50 tyres. I am very happy with the result, it looks stunning in my point of view. rims are polished. Driving experience is sharper with less steering play. Feels more confident with the logical downside, you notice more from the street. Only problem we had were some bolts being a millimetre too long, there was a noise in curves, so we had to shorten them and now everything is fine.
Regards, Björn
#10
Mechanicals / Re: 280 SE fuel level sender -...
Last post by rumb - 04 October 2022, 10:19 AM
Put your vom probe on one post and move the other along the wire until you find the break in continuity.