Running rich can be due to the last 8 years just starting the engine occasionally with fresh oil and no coolant to keep it going. The PO did mention having to do some work on the fuel system at some point due to not running well.
Considering the amount of wear... continue with a full rebuild (with some parts NLA), or stop here and look for a good running motor? Even if I can get the heads all new, you can't ignore the block.
I have sourced some parts for the motor already, but these may be better used on a motor in a better condition to start with.
I have a theory about this motor. I'm just puttin' it out there. After peering into these photos for some time and taking into account what has been reported I am hily suspicious that this motor has spent a lot lot lot of its life running rich.
I'd wager a bet ... $5.00 !... that this explains the excessive wear on the inlet valves which have been continually running wet and thus deprived of lubrication. The combustion chambers are far too black as are the piston tops. By the time the whole lot is burnt off the exhaust valves are black too BUT not excessively worn. Maybe someone fiddled with the WUR so that it ran rich to compensate for the blown head gasket. dunno
But it raises the spectre of block wear could be similarly affected.
Time to take some accurate bore measuremnets unless the pistons are coming out in which case,.all will be revealed.!
Before going any further how true are the heads? You can't take much off these before you run into problems of camshaft timing and valley cover machining.
Meanwhile...examining the pieces. This is rather odd....... the inlets are worn worse than the exhaust.? all valves are as black as pitch.? it doesn't look like the exhaust valves have sat on their seat (s) for a looong time.???n
You have committed to a course of substantial overhaul. 1.you have new valve guides? The old ones are clearly worn as per normal. 2 new exhaust valves on the way 3 inlet valves which are clearly well out of spec but no new ones on the horizon.?
What are the valve seats like?. They are going to have to be recut and faced anyway.
New valve stem seals of course.
You are going to have to consider new valve lifters.
moving to the lower part of the motor....how stripped down are you prepared to go?
All the other platers in town have closed shop in the last few years unfortunately. SL is the only outfit left for 500mi, and they know it. They quoted me $3,200 to refinish my set!
Speaking of other shops closing, I barely managed to get these back from the one other remaining outfit I'd contracted with that then shut down. Apparently all the employees left under less than amicable terms, and had been deliberately doing terrible work for months to sink the owner. Hence my quality problems...
At least my brackets and carriers are good, and recently powder coated. It looks like these Tynda repos are just the covers.
Has anyone here "Activated their Passion"? After now 2 fiascos with OE bumpers, I'm about to give these a shot and would love to ask someone with experience a few questions.
Due respect to those suggesting restoring is better... I've now dealt with sellers trying to scam me, shipping companies damaging them, misrepresentation (they're NEVER as nice as advertised and are all 50yrs old), and two of the worst plating jobs I've ever seen.
For all of my months of effort and thousands wasted, I am the proud owner of a complete set of OE euro bumpers with dents that have been pounded out, corroded portions of the rubber tracks, and chrome with so much poor adhesion and shadowing that I'd never put them anywhere near my car.
The original question was whether this motor was beyond repair..we've looked at a number of what I would call "CRITICAL MARKERS" from the top of the motor. Everything IMHO looks a "go". eg Rocker wear seems remarkably good .
You have sent the heads out I presume to be dismantled. Now we can see the valves and they have measured up under sized. It's impossible to tell from a photo. how much have they worn?
But the million dollar question is how did the valve guides measure up.?
AND what about the valve springs? How did they measure?