News: - All about the Car!

Main Menu

Recent posts

Mechanicals / Re: How do ignition coils fail...
Last post by raueda1 - Today at 10:50 AM
Quote from: daantjie on Today at 09:50 AMCoil is cheap.  I would replace on principle if you're doing all the other components.
That's my thinking too.  I did a little searching.  Actually not so cheap from what I've seen, at least for a Bosch coil and not a generic Chinese copy. 

Anyway, in searching I assume that there's nothing special about the 6.9 coil and that they were shared over a number of MB models and maybe chassis, such as W123 &/or W126.  So, in searching, look for a Bosch coil for V8 models of the era?  The other question is about age.  It's not clear to me how an NOS unit would deteriorate in storage but who knows? Cheers,
Mechanicals / Re: How do ignition coils fail...
Last post by daantjie - Today at 09:50 AM
Coil is cheap.  I would replace on principle if you're doing all the other components.
Mechanicals / Re: 6.9 cam timing marks
Last post by rumb - Today at 08:29 AM
So if spec is 14 and you are now at 20 and 23, that means you are off by 9. 10 is the limit, so I would pull a new chain in. Assuming your guides are fine the gears should be also, though look close at the cam gears at least. Those are easy enough to replace if needed.
Mechanicals / Re: Putting a M116 into 280S
Last post by Nabstud - Today at 07:46 AM
Yeah the trigger points are one of my worries, I believe they are N/A.
Mechanicals / Re: How do ignition coils fail...
Last post by Nabstud - Today at 07:44 AM
I had a coil that started failing when it started to warm up. Cold start and the first few minutes were smooth, then a slight miss progressively getting worse until it was undriveable. Same again on the next cold start.
But normally I agree that they either work or don't.
Mechanicals / Re: 6.9 cam timing marks
Last post by ramiro - Today at 07:22 AM
To be sure i confirmed the measurments again today (0.1 mm vavle could already make a degree difference) and got the same like yesterday 23 right side and 20 left side.
So should i correct it using the special wedges or use a new chain normally i would think that the chain is somehow worn to the gears and it would be better leave it in ?

Attached some pictures from the results.
I set the dial at exatctly at 3 mm on when the valve was closed , so you can see it went exactly 2 mm.
Shop / Re: Looking for a W116 etc to ...
Last post by Feather535 - Yesterday at 06:21 PM
Too late to help, but you could have rented my 280SE.  It's located near Reno and it's not a car that's "too nice" for where you were going.
Test Drive / Re: My 6.9's
Last post by rumb - Yesterday at 04:28 PM
Ha, they raised the price to 350 euro!  :o
Test Drive / Re: The "Goldilocks" restorati...
Last post by ptashek - Yesterday at 03:13 PM
Quote from: floyd111 on 27 September 2023, 09:51 AMHe Lukas,

I just wanted to re-browse your Goldilocks pics, but they seem gone?

Maybe you could re-post some of them, especially the ones taken when you finished the job..
Would love to have another look.

Hey Stan, if you DM me your email address and I'll reshare the folder. I've removed most of the public shares as a few enterprising workshops stole the photos and presented them as their work.
Mechanicals / How do ignition coils fail?
Last post by raueda1 - Yesterday at 01:23 PM
I'm finally doing an ignition tuneup - wires, plugs, cap and rotor.  To be clear, in general the car runs well.  However, the idle is sometimes lumpy, other times not, sometimes missing a little, other times not.  My snap judgement is always to blame K-jet, WUR, etc etc but it's all well set up.  Meanwhile, I know I don't have exactly the right plugs.  At the time I got resistor plugs.  Wrong, I know, but there was some reason and they were an improvement over what was there so I put that issue on the back burner.  Probably not right wires either, so time to do it all properly. 

But what about the coil?  I've always assumed that coils are a kind of "binary" item, either good or no good.  But is this strictly true?  Can an old coil be compromised somehow, but not so much that car doesn't run at all?  Or, for example, be "weak" at idle but OK as engine revs?  If so then I'd replace on principal.  Thanks and cheers,