116's and particularly 6.9's are supposed to be driven

SELfor50
Vintage
Posts: 691
...just call me the "M.O.T.F.".
Location: Canberra, Australia

Re: 116's and particularly 6.9's are supposed to be driven
« Reply #15 on: 24 July 2008, 02:34 PM »

Quote from: oscar on 23 July 2008, 03:27 PM

Quote from: SELfor50 on 23 July 2008, 02:18 PM

PS. Oscar, is that deadset? Govt employees can't lease a V8?? Do you have to use Ethanol fuel too? Huh

Contracting has it's bonuses i guess.

Well actually, that was a NSW govt rule so not sure about Fed. When you talked of leasing I thought it must have been a novated lease arrangement that we're doing now. Guys at work have done it and noticed no difference in take home pay. Of course, the best part is just handing over that fuel card rather than a credit card.

The V8 rule is ridiculous. You can get a 4WD, you can get a car that weighs well over two tonne, but you can't get a V8 sedan. Huh

Our Terri uses way more fuel than a V8 Statesman. Undecided

No mention of Ethanol. You should be able to stipulate the fuel that the fuel-card or motocard for the car accepts, whether it be 91ron,98 ron or diesel. I haven't heard of anyone being limited to anything other than what their cars should take. However, if the leased car is on 91ron as per manufacturer and the card is for 91unleaded only, you might have to foot the bill if you use 98. I accidentally put 95ron isntead of 91 into a work commodore years ago and the caltex card wouldn't work, I had to fork out the $ Angry

but later I got reimbursed Grin

EDIT: Another rule change that came in for us is that we can lease used cars up till 9YO. Hence why a 2002-04 ML is appealing rather than comitting to a new car price. Is that what you can do too?

Yeah mate, I think they go up to about 6-7yrs old with our lease company.. It's a novated one too. I mentioned the fuel, cause with the work car's it stipulates that we must use ethanol.. But that's mainly cause of the stink caused in the media bout climate change / renewable energy etc... Bloody greenies.

Thanks for the advice Bill, much appreciated. I'll post my results after the test drive's.

Cam.

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-= 1975 - Datsun 120y =-
-= 1978 - 450 SEL [Euro] =-
-= 1978 - 450 SEL [Aust] =- R.I.P. 1979 - 23/01/2008
-= 2007 - 400 SE [Aust] =-

kolin
Enthusiast
Posts: 97

Re: 116's and particularly 6.9's are supposed to be driven
« Reply #16 on: 05 August 2008, 08:59 AM »

Quote from: WGB on 21 July 2008, 02:11 AM

Quote from: nathan on 20 July 2008, 03:10 PM

Bill,
how fast were you going if you got 21l/100! if you had >100km open road driving, you shuold get about 16-17 per 100 if at 100kmh! Wink

I chose my words carefully as I was in a 110 area most of the time but of the 300 km - 200km was Metro Driving with only 100km at speed (and I was passing a lot) so 21 is about what I would expect.

My ML 500 averages just under the 15L/100km for metro driving and can get as low as 11.8L/100 km on a run if I am careful with the passing manoeuvres.

Tends to average low 12's on a normal run and I can neither confirm nor deny my true cruising speed.

My wife's ML320 CDI averages 10.3 Litres/100km in metro running with 9.0 and lower at cruise and unlike the older ML270 she had before it has enough grunt to pass at speed.

Bill

well if you lived here in good ol' RSA, you would be able to confirm the speeds you drove at without fear of reprisals from the thought police

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WGB
W116 Addict
Posts: 1,984
The beauty is in the detail
Location: Perth - Western Australia

Re: 116's and particularly 6.9's are supposed to be driven
« Reply #17 on: 24 August 2008, 12:32 AM »

Filled my tank again yesterday in the 6.9 and it what has been mainly metro running it returned 17.9 litres/100km.

Seems to be improving.

Bill

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1979 450SEL 6.9 AMG "5554"
1979 450SEL
1938 Ford V8 Deluxe - Long Term Project
1985 Porsche 944 - next resurrection
2005 BA Mk11 Falcon - The towbar
2007 ML 500 - Flawless first 32K
2008 ML 320 CDI - It's hers - she picked Black - me no wash

kolin
Enthusiast
Posts: 97

Re: 116's and particularly 6.9's are supposed to be driven
« Reply #18 on: 25 August 2008, 07:27 AM »

improving hey??
not bad at 17.9/100
what does it do when towing??
well things are improving here, a new act just been passed last week, says that if you are caught doing over 30kmh over the speed limit in urban areas your license will be suspended for a year, and if its on the highways and your doing 40 over the speed limit, then its also suspended for a year.
this is great news for a country that has no public transport.

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Patrick Bateman
W116 Addict
Posts: 2,346
6.9 by PB™
Location: Perth, Western Australia

Re: 116's and particularly 6.9's are supposed to be driven
« Reply #19 on: 08 September 2008, 12:32 AM »

I havent driven or run my 6.9 for any serious length of time since february, yesturday i started it for the first time in over 2 weeks. I for the first time ever heard the sewing machine sound of a seized lifter. It did disapear and correct itself after 2 minutes, but i wonder if its a sign of it being left sitting for months at a time.

I STILL havent received the rubber pads to install my rear bumpers properly! The parts interpreter at Stuttgart swore black and blue that he ordered my parts 2 months ago. When i returned to see if they'd arrived, i found out that he quit and im not the only one asking where the hell my parts are. They werent even ordered. Little c%nt. Should be here now though.

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A party aint a party till the rellies have arived, and it aint even christmas, till you've kissed your nanna on the gummy old mouth, and you've pulled your grandads finger.

s class
W116 Addict
Posts: 1,945
I'll keep the 116's, the rest can go
Location: refitting a 6.9 sump

Re: 116's and particularly 6.9's are supposed to be driven
« Reply #20 on: 08 September 2008, 06:09 AM »

Due to the 280SE being incapacitated for a week due to rear brake repairs, last week I ran trusty rusty daily. It was good fun, despite the 23l/100km. I'm sure it could be better as I know the valve timing is off, and the injectors need replacing.

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116024 : 280SE Euro : reliable and faithful
116036 : 6.9 Euro : project
116036 : 6.9 Euro : AMG
107044 : 450SL Euro : FOR SALE : ZAR 69000
140051 : 500SEL Euro : RIP 07/92 - 07/08
202018 : C180 Euro : Wifey's

WGB
W116 Addict
Posts: 1,984
The beauty is in the detail
Location: Perth - Western Australia

Re: 116's and particularly 6.9's are supposed to be driven
« Reply #21 on: 08 September 2008, 10:03 AM »

Quote from: kolin on 25 August 2008, 07:27 AM

what does it do when towing??

Dont know - don't tow except for a 6x4 trailer and I use my Falcon for that. Cool

Quote from: Patrick Bateman on 08 September 2008, 12:32 AM

I havent driven or run my 6.9 for any serious length of time since february, yesturday i started it for the first time in over 2 weeks. I for the first time ever heard the sewing machine sound of a seized lifter. It did disapear and correct itself after 2 minutes, but i wonder if its a sign of it being left sitting for months at a time.

I have one lifter that a year ago was loud enough to hear from outside the car. Every time I take it for a decent drive and get it good and hot it get's quieter and now I only hear it as a slight noise at certain speeds from the driver's seat.

My Go-No go gauge arrived from the US today so will order a few new hydraulic lifters from Autohausaz and then go for broke with a check of all static clearances, replacement of any dodgy hydraulic limiters and fitting of the two degree cam off-set keys and then hopefully seal it up and forget about the valve train for a few years.

Quote from: s class on 08 September 2008, 06:09 AM

Due to the 280SE being incapacitated for a week due to rear brake repairs, last week I ran trusty rusty daily. It was good fun, despite the 23l/100km. I'm sure it could be better as I know the valve timing is off, and the injectors need replacing.

But if you don't use up that fuel someone else will Ryan. I am tempted by a new set of injectors as they are not all that expensive.

Bill

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1979 450SEL 6.9 AMG "5554"
1979 450SEL
1938 Ford V8 Deluxe - Long Term Project
1985 Porsche 944 - next resurrection
2005 BA Mk11 Falcon - The towbar
2007 ML 500 - Flawless first 32K
2008 ML 320 CDI - It's hers - she picked Black - me no wash

TJ 450
Vintage
Posts: 527
100.985, 117.986 incomplete.
Location: Perth, Western Australia

Re: 116's and particularly 6.9's are supposed to be driven
« Reply #22 on: 08 September 2008, 12:53 PM »

Regarding new injectors, they are highly recommended... when my 6.9 was running, with the new injectors, seals and serviced airflow meter (sealed with genuine MB sealant), it was running extremely smoothly even when absolutely cold. PB now has my old ones (unless he threw them out)... they were crap.
My 450 still has the originals installed, which are leaking... Nathan has seen the smoke followed by the smell of unburnt fuel when I start the car when warm, on a slope. Grin

Regarding noisy lifters... I'm with the ATF movement. Grin

'Twas a success on my 450, along with many oil changes.

Tim

« Last Edit: 08 September 2008, 12:59 PM by TJ 450 »

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1976 450SEL 6.9 #1432, 223,830km
1979 450SEL, 345,000km.
1994 Volvo 850GLE, 167,500km, Daily Driver.
---

WGB
W116 Addict
Posts: 1,984
The beauty is in the detail
Location: Perth - Western Australia

Re: 116's and particularly 6.9's are supposed to be driven
« Reply #23 on: 08 September 2008, 03:03 PM »

I'm not putting ATF in my 12 litres of Red-line 20-50 Synthetic Shocked

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1979 450SEL 6.9 AMG "5554"
1979 450SEL
1938 Ford V8 Deluxe - Long Term Project
1985 Porsche 944 - next resurrection
2005 BA Mk11 Falcon - The towbar
2007 ML 500 - Flawless first 32K
2008 ML 320 CDI - It's hers - she picked Black - me no wash

TJ 450
Vintage
Posts: 527
100.985, 117.986 incomplete.
Location: Perth, Western Australia

Re: 116's and particularly 6.9's are supposed to be driven
« Reply #24 on: 08 September 2008, 05:24 PM »

Ah yes, that would be shocking in your case. That Redline synthetic should be doing a better job than even the ATF at keeping the lifters free of deposits. IMHO the ATF is good if you know they are gummed up due to lack of maintenance at some point in the car's life, which is certainly not applicable to your situation, Bill.
As for my 6.9, I'm quite certain it will need new lifters as they all seem to be stuck from lack of use. I get the impression they are beyond the help of things like ATF too, but the moment of truth will be when I start driving the car.

Tim

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1976 450SEL 6.9 #1432, 223,830km
1979 450SEL, 345,000km.
1994 Volvo 850GLE, 167,500km, Daily Driver.
---

s class
W116 Addict
Posts: 1,945
I'll keep the 116's, the rest can go
Location: refitting a 6.9 sump

Re: 116's and particularly 6.9's are supposed to be driven
« Reply #25 on: 08 September 2008, 05:26 PM »

Trusty rusty has been on a 1000km treatment - its just completed the first 800km on SHeel Rotela diesel lube oil, and last night I added 1 litre of ATF for the next 100 to 200km, whereafter I will do an oil change.

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116024 : 280SE Euro : reliable and faithful
116036 : 6.9 Euro : project
116036 : 6.9 Euro : AMG
107044 : 450SL Euro : FOR SALE : ZAR 69000
140051 : 500SEL Euro : RIP 07/92 - 07/08
202018 : C180 Euro : Wifey's

John Hubertz
Vintage
Posts: 641
Location: 130 Miles North of Louisville, Kentucky

Re: 116's and particularly 6.9's are supposed to be driven
« Reply #26 on: 08 September 2008, 11:25 PM »

ATF IS oil you know. It is basically a light machine oil with significant additives to improve high-temp/antivarnish qualities. Anyone with suspect lifters might consider even a more extreme ATF remedy - .50 motor oil/.50 ATF for about 50 miles. Use at least a 30W straight or 20-50 so you don't have the watery oil syndrome.

This will make a difference.

JH

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John Hubertz
"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro."
(Hunter S. Thompson)

1977 450SEL (Max Headroom)

koan
W116 Addict
Posts: 1,294
Location: Melbourne

Re: 116's and particularly 6.9's are supposed to be driven
« Reply #27 on: 09 September 2008, 07:04 AM »

Quote from: TJ 450 on 08 September 2008, 05:24 PM

As for my 6.9, I'm quite certain it will need new lifters as they all seem to be stuck from lack of use. I get the impression they are beyond the help of things like ATF too, but the moment of truth will be when I start driving the car.

If I don't drive or at least do a warm up once a week the one lash adjuster that leaks down makes an enormous racket for about 10 seconds when started up from cold. It's not just tick, tick, tick, more like a big end bearing rattle, but that would continue and not fade out.

Sometimes it happens, sometimes not, depends if the engine stops with that adjuster compressed.

No idea which adjuster it is, I have a new set which will go in when my heads are ready.

The top of my engine as always seemed to noisy, too much general clatter, I hoped the "basic position adjustment" procedure done when rocker arms where replaced would fix it but didn't.

This time when I put the heads back together I expect things to be much quieter with the new adjusters.

koan

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