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My 1980 280SE has the screw-ons, but it could also be a S.A. vs German build thing. 

Firstly, sweet ride!  If the w116 is lowered too much will it hurt or effect the car in any negative fashion?  I just brought a w116 and it is lowered in the front not rear with broken rear drive shaft!  cheers again!

If you have a VIN and Chassis Number and Rego then you can do a REVS check;

https://online.revs.nsw.gov.au/revs/public.htm

Free of charge.

Looks like there may be some work to be done to make it drive otherwise why keep it stored for 2 years and then put it up for sale?

Go the safety first route... after all it's your life and those of your passengers at risk.

Any suspension issues should be rectified if you plan to drive the car on the road.  Should it be pulling in one direction or another, then this will be exaggerated under braking and or cornering: needless to say you don't want to slide into another car!  The results will be more expensive than fixing the problem.

As for exhaust noises persiting even after you've had repalcements carried out, check the following:
1. Examine the join between the manifold [headers for North Americans] and exhaust pipe.  The nults can get loose and allow the system to vibrate and leak.
2. Examine the exhaust pipe clamps [the ones that keep the two pipes in parallel].  If they are loose, the exhaust pipe will rattle inside the figure 8 that these make up.

they are my original covers and clips, cad plated

Aha!  Should've guessed that

The clips v white screw knobs - I forgot all about them.  Now that you mention it I do remember seeing the bits where the clips attach too on the upper frame behind the headlights.  Of course all my collection have screw ons including the 77 280 wreck.

Ah.  Thanks for the fair warning. 

So it would seem the best course of action is simply to replace the regulator, right? 

I ask because I'm wondering if it's the motor plate that could (also) be warped?

Yrs,
MABRYT

Mabry,
in my experience, it is not possibly to straighten these things without them busting (that and you need to be superman).
as BAR said, its due to warping as these things cop a lot of stress in their working life.  there is little point pulling it out to try and bend it, have another replacement ready as otherwise you will be doing the same thing next month when it snaps!
goodl uck

Well, darn.

I suppose that means removing both the regulator and the motor from the door, yes?

That die cast alloy should be banned: both the door check and the support for the door latch were broken in the same door, and now this.

Do you know if the backing plate can be removed?  Or is it a structural element of the door itself?

Thanks-
MABRYT

THe 'out of alignment' would indicate a greater problem.  It also causes the window actuator to jam as it operates or slow down.

It is a sure sign that the backing plate, a die cast alloy, has buckled.  Usually due to overload.

It will need to be flattened or straightened.

they are my original covers and clips, cad plated

there are early and late version covers - early have a plastic thumb screw in the centre to hold them on, late have that stainless steel spring clip that holds them on...