W116.org

Told you some are not that expensive!

About the tensioner rail, i replaced mine because of the groves in it but that was before I spoke to my mechanically learned mate. He pointed out that there are always grooves where the edges of the chain run, when the grooves are deep enough to let the rollers run on the rail the wear stops. So as long as the running surface is not breaking up and you judge it as unlikely to it should be OK.

koan
 

Ahh yes, and what a catalog it is. Ive never used it tho, as they accept MB part numbers anyway. Their catalog has their own inhouse numbers only. You really need to get the MB EPC happening on your computer.

The EPC would be a great help. I can't believe how slow the system is at the main dealers, plus it would remove the uncertainty as to whether or not I have ordered the correct part. 

Tim

Do you mean the spring compressor or the plywood jig?

The jig holds the chain against the sprocket on both entry and exit sides with very little risk of the cam doing an unexpected rotation caused by the valve springs.

koan
 

I'm a fan of the spring compressor Koan and would appreciate some measurements.

I have a copy of your photo's and was going to estimate the size from the 50mm cross section steel used.

Once the cam followers are removed I would trust the wooden frame more.

I did my 117 450 with cable ties but found I needed two ties a time to work and still jumped the odd tooth. The Vice-grip method was much more satisfactory and not one slip with the 6.9 -  both cars had their cam followers intact.


Bill

I removed the Crankcase Cover tonight for a bit of an inspection. It looks like the curved rail is going to be difficult to remove due to the size of it, I should be able to get it out though with some slack in the chain. The LH lower rail has deep grooves in it, but as you pointed out Koan, once it gets down to the rollers it won't wear much. This one is easy to remove and is the $8 part.



Before I get too carried away with this, is it vital to get the piston in #1 at TDC before releasing the tensioner, or is this not necessary?

Tim

P.S. I won't be touching the car again until the weekend and the cover is back on to stop any foreign objects from getting in the crankcase.

I removed the RHS curved rail from the top after the tensioning rail was out and lowered it back with bent coat hanger wire.

No need to have the engine at TDC for rail replacement or removing the tensioner.

Doesn't matter how you pull the tensioner out but the manual gives the following sequence. Remove the plug which is under spring pressure, then the threaded ring which is under the plug (using the same tool as the plug), the two bolts that hold the flange and finally withdrawing the sleeve and pressure "bolt".

The important thing is to "reset" the tensioner by removing the pressure bolt from the sleeve by taking out the clip in the end of the sleeve and pulling the bolt out.

To install put the clip back in the end of the sleeve and slide the bolt in just far enough so it engages the ratchet and then assemble on the engine in reverse order of removal taking care not to extend the pressure bolt until the spring and cap are put back.

koan

Sorry WGB, was going to do it last night but didn't get the time.

Intend to measure, draw, scan and post as a jpg in the gallery.


Its 40mm not 50mm, and 6mm thick.

koan

Is there a trick to removing the tensioner housing in the cylider head? The manual says to pull it out, but it doesn't seem to want to move.

Tim

If the flange is off it should just pull out. It can only be gummed in there unless someone has used some sealer on it. Clean the business end of it, remove any build up of gunge and have another go.

koan

I take it you have removed the large flange part which is bolted to the head - not just unscrewed the end cap.

The tensioner won't come out until the flange is removed.

Flange gasket - A100 052 09 80

Aluminium sealing ring - N 007603 028104.

Picked up two of each from Diesels today so that I can put in my offset keys - one each to use and one as a spare.

Bill

Yes, the flange has been removed as well. The only thing left installed is that housing. I'll have another go at it when the weather clears up.
I received a chain connecting link today (with the two circlips), the aux transmission pump hoses and a transmission mount.
Thanks for those part numbers, I'll need to order both those items.

Tim

It must just be crudded into the head.

Gentle persuasion from the tensioner slider side should back it out ?Hammer handle and gentle leverage on the back of the chain where it presses against the top of the tensioner slider.

Be careful how much force you use or you could perhaps affect the ratchet.

I don't know where you are getting your parts but 000-997-79-94 is the timing chain with single clip master link and full cost is US$124 (M-100 club price $105.40) while the tensioner with a gasket but no seal ring is 100-050-05-11 US$216 (M-100 club price $183.60) with $40 postage is what it cost me 3 months ago from Tom Hanson at the Classic Centre.

The ratcheting tensioner is probably eminently re-usable but some people replace the spring clip that provides the surface for the ratchet action but I don't know the part no for that spring.

Well, this job has been completed... I hope.

I hired a suitable torque wrench and with a makeshift extension, torqued the nut up to just over 400NM or 300 foot pounds.

Here we go... click for a larger view.


...Tim

Congratulations- I take it the flywheel teeth held and nothing untoward happened.

Bill