W116.org

Nice work

IS the Porsche lock designed to handle 400NM?, what are the Porsche crankshaft nuts tightened to ? I'm curious as to the longevity of this lock as the M100 specific one locks several more teeth. I shall wait and see how it holds up on the re-tightening before ordering one 

I'm pleased to hear it worked Tim.

Pb - you pay either $45 to buy one or borrow for nothing and you takes your chances.

Porsche crankshaft bolt is between 210Nm  and 270Nm  depending on model so it is still substantial even if not 400 Nm.

For security it would not be too difficult to make up another couple of teeth and weld them on .

Bill

Hi Koan,
The puller is an ABW that was purchased from Coventry's. It is also designed for the GM 3.8L V6, the only problem I had was that I needed longer bolts so as to not deform the threads on the hub during removal. That was easily fixed and it certainly did the trick. I also inverted it's operation to reinstall the unit after heating in the oven. With some experiments with packing I managed to pull the unit back on far enough to fit the crankshaft nut back on to bring it home. This was done using one of the bolts from the puller kit through several sockets as packing, through the puller plate and into the female thread on the end of the crankshaft. On the in-between phase, I used some of the convex washers (taking care to remember their arrangement) with the crankshaft nut inverted as per PB's instructions.
The nut is now torqued up such that the washers are no longer convex, but flat. I will hire a suitable torque wrench next weekend to do the final torquing of the nut to the specified 400NM.

PB, I believe the "weakest link" is actually the flywheel ring gear, so if any disasters do occur, there will be some anger. 

Pics to come shortly.

Tim

looking forward to the pics.


Soon youll be running out of things to do on this engine surley ?? Whats next ?

After the water pump is reinstalled, I still have to:
1. Renew timing chain
2. Replace sump hoses
I also have on order from autohausaz, all hoses for aux transmission pump, idler arm bush kit (Lemforder), timing chain master link. Engine mounts are out of stock, so I may go genuine (ouch!). I will order the hydraulic dampers next week along with their bushes.

Here are the pics:






Tim

there is one thing i forgot to tell you. and i hope it dosent mean youll have to pull the hub off again...

the double lipped crank shaft seal is suppoed to be packed with grease between the 2 lips, if its run dry without lubrication youll rip the shit out of it in no time.

I called in to see Tim at home and he is doing very well with limited resources.

Keep it up Tim your enthusiasm is unbelievable.

Just don't expect to finish it all too quickly.

Bill

Hmmm. I didn't pack the seal with grease, but I did smear grease over the sealing lips and its journal. The manual says "Give radial seal grease at sealing lip and pull in with installer". There was certainly no signs of grease being packed in the original seal, only a film of oil. Of course, this is no indication of what is correct.
If I have to remove it again, it will just be slightly annoying.
I'm in no rush to get this finished, aside from returning the flywheel lock.
Thanks for the support, Bill. 

Tim

I couldn't get the hub back on "in one operation" as the book says, tried three times and gave up. Final time got it on far enough to use the crank nut to pull it up.

Don't know if you have done the timing chain sliding rails but they should be done while the water pump is off as at least one of them can't be removed with the pump in place. The sliding rails are not too expensive, the tensioning rail is the killer.

Agree with PB about grease in between the lips of the seal...

My final touch after painting the balencer was to colour in the graduations with one of the enamel markers.

koan

It sounds like I should pack the seal with grease.

I think that's the tensioner rail lower pin... sounds like the chain will need to be done before the water pump goes back on, as I will need to check that rail and perhaps replace the lining if there is one. I had considered replacing the lower LHS curved rail just above the crankshaft sprocket, but perhaps that is overkill. It will obviously require removal of the balancer and lower crankcase cover yet again, not to mention the oil pump chain.

Tim

Just do the job properly and we'll worry about the flywheel lock later.

That is a very big and short duplex chain driving that oil pump so that should not be much of a problem whatever it looks like.

The tensioner rail should only need replacement if very deeply grooved.

The problem is how far do you go,

If you take the attitude that everything needs to be replaced you will also need a new crankshaft chain sprocket as well as all guides and camshaft sprockets.

This does not seem very practical to me in real world dollar terms.

I agree you need to be happy that the seal is greased sufficiently on initial startup but keep an open mind about how much perfection is required.

I am very happy to come down one day and help you spin in a new chain if required but that doesn't need the front off the motor and $20 buys a couple of offset keys to get the chain sitting right and allow for sprocket wear.

Bill
 

Yes, then you won't be overcome with a nagging doubt at some future date


And I think the two lower rails in the block. I bought some of the rails recently, a couple where very cheap even from a dealer, one was less than $10 because its not M100 specific.

The upper rails in the cylinder heads can be put off till later and be done with the chain.

The chain tensioning rail was $700 a couple of years ago, getting it relined may be a better idea.

WGB is right about knowing when to stop. Plastic/nylon bits like the rails though, bits that are probably 30 years old and make a bit of a mess when they break and jam the chain are prime candidates for replacement.

koan

I have made the decision this morning. The two lower plastic guide rails are being replaced, they are reasonably priced from the dealer at a combined $30. I ordered them this morning. The cheapest one was in fact $8 (the flat one on the LHS).
I won't be changing the sprockets, as their wear doesn't really concern me and it will not be economically feasible to do so as you said, Bill.


That would be quite likely.

Tim

Sounds like a wise economic decision Tim.

I am also quite genuine about helping you spin in a new chain if and when you are ready.

I am going to try and make a copy of  the "Koan recommended valve lifter" which will remove the right sided rockers and make the whole process a little safer.

Bill

That sounds excellent and would be greatly appreciated. Rocker removal would make it a lot easier.

I'll be renewing the chain before the water pump is installed, just in case that tensioner rail needs attention.

As a side note, I have ordered the Niemoeller catalogue "F" for future endeavours.

Tim