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instrument cluster lights

Started by ulysees, 07 December 2010, 02:38 AM

ulysees

My instrument panel is very dim and i would like to replace the lights in there.
What type are they? How many are there? and what is the easy way to remove the panel?
The glass/plastic cover could also use a good cleaning, what should i use for this?

thanks for the hand     ulysees    (-:

s class

You could try turning up the adjustment rheostat?


[color=blue]'76 6.9 Euro[/color], [color=red]'78 6.9 AMG[/color], '80 280SE, [color=brown]'74 350SE[/color], [color=black]'82 500SEL euro full hydro, '83 500SEL euro full hydro [/color], '81 500SL

npk

Quote from: s class on 07 December 2010, 06:59 AM
You could try turning up the adjustment rheostat?

True...but many have badly fouled rheostat contacts...may be easier to solder a link across the the rheostat (to provide a direct connection but dimming is no longer possible) to give max voltage to the illumination.

NPK

calvin streeting

I just used one of these



between the resotat wires..and by passed it

ulysees

the rheostat does work though it is indeed corroded as the lights go out if i don't get it just right...
so the bulbs -   4  ?  -    could be wiped clean or should they be changed as they may be blackened??

Any idea what kind they are?  Just would like to take it out and clean it and put it back if possible.

Thanks from rainy Denman...   ulysees   (-:

koan

Don't know what rating the lamps are but don't just stick in any old lamp in case too much heat melts the plastic.

There's a odd one in there, a very small lamp on the end of a long thin holder, might be for the tacho or clock.

koan
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

Gerard

on my w124 a few years back i simply put in new bulbs, same wattage (w124 had 5W).  It made a good difference in brightness.  Apparently, the bulbs get dimmer with age.

jjb-w116-hu

 I also have thought of brightening the console lghts and giving it all a good clean, my lights for oil and park brake are also a bit dim from time to time also - how does one get into that panel?

thanks James

WGB

Remove the panel, remove the instruments and the rheostat from the cluster( wiring is held in place by little plastic clips which can be eased out and re-used and the small wiring loom can be moved out of the way as the instruments are unscrewed and removed) , spray the rheostat with electrical contact cleaner, replace every bulb you can see - I think they are little 2 watt festoon bulbs which are sold in every automotive shop.

I don't remember any of the very tiny bulbs being in the instruments - they tend to be in the console - but they are easy enough to find as well at automotive shops.

Take note where everything goes - particularly which indicator bulb is in which socket (photograph or record)

Be careful cleaning the plastic lenses - glass cleaner like windex - and don't touch the instrument faces or needles with anything.

Also don't try and clean the coloured indicator lenses at the bottom of the cluster as the painted motif rubs off (personal experience).

If you are really brave find some correct coloured matt model paint, put a paper mask between needle and dial face and brush paint the needles very carefully with a tiny brush without removing them from their respective instruments.

When you put it all back make sure all the lights work as invariably something like the brake pad warning light will slip out of it's socket and in a 6.9 don't mix up the brake pad warning light with the suspension low pressure light.

If you have a late model clock and it is not working replace the two capacitators that fail and voila you have a reconditioned display.

Bill

koan

Quote from: WGB on 14 December 2010, 09:07 PM
I don't remember any of the very tiny bulbs being in the instruments - they tend to be in the console - but they are easy enough to find as well at automotive shops.

This is the holder and lamp I'm referring to:


Looking at the back of the cluster it's located above and left of multi-pin connector, would appear to put the lamp in the gap between the speedo and the three-way gauge.

koan


Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

WGB

Yes that's one of the tiny festoon bulbs as used in the console.

I must have a look at my spare instrument panel as it's a few years since I've replaced any bulbs in either of my cars.

Nathan , being a purist, says those tiny bulbs are better if you find the frosted ones - can't say I've ever seen a frosted one myself.

Bill

ChiapC

I'm having the same issue, however my rheostat is working for my A/C temperature selection dial. The dial dims, brightens and turns off by using the rheostat! None of my other dash lights are operable though! Any ideas?

My car is a 79 280se.

Thanks!

Green74280se

Must be a common problem with age?

When I got mine a month ago the first time i needed to use lights i noticed i had no dash lights at all.

A couple of brisk twists of the dimmer knob (Not sure what its called sorry!) and I suddenly had a few bursts of light going on and off,

A couple more twists and I have smooth dimming and glowing.

The only light on the upper dash that doesn't work is my left hand (green) blinker .. which i presume is a blown globe.

My aircon light is ok but my fan light only works on speed 2 and 3!!!

Joys of owning an old car!  ;D

Diesel 617

Quote from: ChiapC on 20 March 2013, 01:02 PM
I'm having the same issue, however my rheostat is working for my A/C temperature selection dial. The dial dims, brightens and turns off by using the rheostat! None of my other dash lights are operable though! Any ideas?

My car is a 79 280se.

Thanks!

Have you check your bulbs to see if they are burned out? We know the rheostat is getting power and sending it to the climate control unit, meaning the fuse is also working, this sounds like dead light bulbs to me.
X3 1980 300SD Blown Heads, trans -Retired
1980 450SEL Parted out/Scrap
1980 450SEL to Diesel Parted Out/Scrap
1979 280SE Euro Spec Cloth Seats Sold
1979 300CD Daily Driver - Sold


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