Getting back on the road

[CMS280SE]

Hi everyone,

A couple of years ago I bought a 1980 280SE with about 257,000km on it. I haven't been enjoying it in a while and now am looking to get it back on the road. Is there anything particular I should check or look out for before I try getting it mobile again?

Basically it needs a new battery and is leaking transmission fluid - which I am hoping would be stopped by some additive. The boot lock doesn't open, but I have already got some excellent advice from other posts of how to investigate this. I am not sure what else needs attention at this stage. Bodywork and paint is in great condition, and so is the interior except for a sagging rear seat cushion and a dash mat which has been glued to the dash.

The car also has a fairly budget immobiliser fitted which allways used to play up, and I am hoping to remove this in due course. Despite this the car occasionally wouldn't start unless i moved the gearshift through to L and back up to P again - occasionally a number of times in a row. An RAC mechanic who had some experience on W116s mentioned once it could be caused by a switch in the transmission - any other ideas?

I have only recently come accros this site and wish I had earlier - there is nowhere else where this amount of information and knowledge would be located - simply great! 

Chris

[koan]

Is there anything particular I should check or look out for before I try getting it mobile again?

Have a look underneath for any puddles. Check the fluid levels, engine, transmission, power steering and radiator. To be kind to the engine you might want to disconnect the multi pin plug at the ignition box and crank the engine for 30 secs to get some oil circulating.

When it's running look again underneath for any puddles. Take it for a gentle short drive at first. Be a bit more adventurous with a longer drive next time.

Once you're confident it'll get you back from where ever you go think about spending money on it. First would be an oil change and filter.

The RAC man is probably right, the transmission inhibitor switch could be the cause of your starting problems, not expensive and easy to replace. A common problem in the same area are the the two nylon bushes in the linkage between the selector lever and the gearbox, a few dollars each and again easy to replace. When these wear they prevent the mechanism at the gear box moving correctly, when they eventually fall out they will leave you stranded.

Either get rid of the immobiliser or figure out how its connected so you can manage a failure far from home.

The boot lock has three positions, fully counter clockwise always locked,  next position follows central locking. In the third (final)  spring loaded clockwise position the boot should open when the button is pushed regardless of central locking state.

Odd the rear seat cushion has sagged as they are generally rarely used - unless the car was previously owned by the quintessential sheep farmer.

You wont find better help anywhere for your 116, welcome aboard.

koan

[CMS280SE]

Koan,

Thanks for your great advice! I was going to do an oil change prior to trying to start the car as the oil looks very dark in colour. In light of your comments would you suggest I start the car and do a short drive first? It hasn't been run for aboout 18 months.

After pushing the car a few metres this morning I now think the leak underneath it which I had thought may be transmission fluid could actually be engine oil- as it seems to be coming from the sump. Is there any problems here? And as for the transmission inhibitor switch and the nylon bushes - do the workshop manuals located in the library have diagrams and procedures on their replacement?

Progress was made first up this morning with the boot - which I opened easily by turning the key n the lock THEN pushing the button, as opposed to the opposite! I also gave the car a good wash and it is looking great - excellent motivation.

As far as I know I am the third owner of the car. The first bought it new from Diesel Motors in Bentley and had it until 2005 when he became too old to drive. The second owner conducted a service, replaced the cruise control and put on some chrome wheelarch covers. He then drove it 8,000kms over the next 3 years and sold it. Not much of a service history and I am not sure about the rear seat. The upholstery is in perfect condition with no tears, but the cushion has deteriorated significantly. I did think the first owner was a farmer (or lived in the country at least) due to traces of red dust on the underside, but there is no tow bar fitted, so perhaps not the former...

Thanks again,

Chris

[TJ 450]

I would change the oil prior to starting and then again after a few Ks. You don't want that old oil circulating through the engine.

If the leak is in the vicinity of the sump, see how it goes after an oil change... it could be the filter canister, or the sump plug.

BTW, unless you actually want the immobiliser, it's not a legal requirement in WA to have one for this age of car.

Tim

[CMS280SE]

Hey Tim,

Thanks for your advice. And I really don't want the immobiliser - always used to cause too many problems and another cluncky thing on the keychain.

On the topic of keys do you know where I can get some original MB keys for the car? When i bought the car it came with 3 of the original keys (all of them becoming loose at the plastic) and a 4th aftermarket key. I would like to obtain a full set of original keys if possible.

I suppose I could still get some from Mercedes...

Chris

[TJ 450]

Diamond Lock and Key, Main St Osborne Park do the blade style keys with Silca blanks.

Otherwise, I was quoted $80 for an original key from Wespoint Star... This was the blade style key for my 450.

Tim

[s class]

The problem with the rear seat is the rubberised fibre padding between the springs and the leather cover has disintegrated and fallen though the springs.  Its a common problem that for some reason afflicts the rear seats much more severely than the front seats.  Replacement rubberised fibre pads are available, or else for the budget conscious there is cheap foam used by upholsterers. 

[CMS280SE]

Thanks s class. I had thought of just ghoing to a wreckers and getting another rear seat cushion, as well as another front centre armrest - but i have the dark blue MB-Tex interior and haven't seen too many of those around in WA so far.

Would it be possible to get a whole seat cushion and remove the rubberised fibre pad if it is another colour/material?

Also how easy would it be to find a match for the carpet on the rear parcel shelf? Mine has faded quite substantially.

Chris

[CMS280SE]

Old post I know - but for some stupid reason I can't seem to open .pdf documents in the workshop manual library on this computer anymore.

Does anybody know thhe appropriate torque for spark plugs on the M110 engine?

Chris

[TJ 450]

They should be torqued to 25NM. This is across all the engines.

Tim

[CMS280SE]

Excellent - thanks for coming to the rescue of my IT-ineptness (and my car) TJ!

Chris

[Big_Richard]

Old post I know - but for some stupid reason I can't seem to open .pdf documents in the workshop manual library on this computer anymore.

Download and install the latest version "adobe acrobat reader"

Assuming you are running windows/ie

It doesn't hurt to also ensure you have the latest version of Java installed - required for the service manual user interface.

[Big_Richard]

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