ac panel & shift console

[dssc]

My shift console  and a/c panel are cracked and it seem's to be a waist to through them away and replace them with new ones.
Is it possible to refurbish these items?.    " of a 76 sel 450."

[oscar]

We're talking woodwork not vinyl yeah??  I assume so but yes.  Definitely salvageable.  The easiest would be to just find a pro and get them to do it.  Costs a bit but you'll be happy with the result.  Just have to find a pro that's capable and in doing so I'd try and get a referred to a shop that's been tried by someone else. 

But you can also DIY if you're game.  I had a go.  The two mistakes I made was using sandpaper to strip  stupid really, use a heat gun and if anything is sandpapered you have to use the finest grits.  The other mistake was I didn't have a dust free environment when respraying.  But the results were ok for a first timer.

Here's nathan's recent link on a pro's refurb.  Link There's a few others been posted too if you go for a search

Here's my link to bits I practised on. Link

[dssc]

thanks oscar ,i checked out your  link and was very impressed, it looked great!. I am planning to do it my self,
Since i just starting experimenting,i have an extra piece i've been using and was able to strip the finish off and went over
it  with a clear coat spray that is basically used for cars, looked o.k. but it's not strong enough. but what i got from your link will help me agreat deal.
Nathans photos where WOW.

[oscar]

I'll have another go, one day, when I get motivated.

I found that spray pack polyurethane really good to use.  2K clear is another method and I've seen the results with 2k clear.  Perfect hard mirror finish.  It all depends on how good the operator is.  Parks, the guy who used 2K clear is a pro.  Someone like that could make either method look equally good.  There's also the fench polishing method but I'm not sure whether anyone's been down that route.  Good luck with it 

[WGB]

True French polishing would not produce as durable a finish as 2 pack.

Polyurethane is easy to use but can take some time to dry to a degree hard enough to polish properly.

Make sure you seal the wood properly before you start on the clear finish or you will never be able to undo what you have previously done as the finish will be absorbed into the wood.

Bill

[dssc]

Thank's for the advice bill,you and oscar mentioned 2 pack polyurethane, being from canada, i have never heard of a 2 pack.
I just went to my locall home depot and pickup a can of polyurethane in an aresol can and used that and it seem to work o.k.
just the drying time is a bit long,could you explain what this 2 pack is or should i not worry about it.
I'm still experimenting with an extra piece a have (a/c console).i'm still trying to match the stain.
Is there a polishing method i should be using after it dries, cause it looks petty good as it is ,will  post results when finished.
thank's again.
                             Dan

[WGB]

2 pack is literally that - 2 packs, one of the finish and another of the hardener.

Most hardwares here sell it and you can buy it - just two cans instead of one.

Mix them together  and spray or brush (if it's a floor).

It has the advantage that you can put it on very thickly and it will dry quickly where polyurethane, particularly on the floor, can take several days before you can walk on it. (WE are talking about products that are usually put on wooden floors here).

Not such a problem with car consoles but 2 pack finish is quicker, probably ends up harder and because of less drying time there is less time for dust and bugs to spoil the finish.

Bill

[dssc]

Thank's bill

[Papalangi]

I've not seen 2 pack at the hardware stores here in the states, probably causes cancer in Californians or something like that.

What I have seen but not used is this from Eastwood,
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=21846&itemType=PRODUCT

Michael

[WGB]

That sure looks like it's a 2 pack preparation but seems crazy that you can't buy it in tins and brush or spray it when you are more likely to also own better protection than be let loose with a spray can.

Bill

[koan]

The 2 pack polyurethane coating for floors (just used some, can't remember the brand) doesn't have to be used as 2 pack. When I bought it the store was out of the second can, the sales person said it wasn't required. Doubting this I read the can, sure enough, the second can just accelerates drying and lack of it doesn't affect durability.

My experience with glues and finishes that use a catalyst to speed up curing is when more catalyst is used the resulting bond of finish is less strong. Don't know if that can be extended back to no catalyst is best though.

Avoid any water based products, they are very soft and have almost zero durability.

koan 

[dssc]

That's funny you said that,cause i was going to go with a water based polyerothane on my final
attempt, even though on my practice piece the oil base poly worked fine.I though the watewr based would cure
stronger. Just a thought.

[koan]

I'm no expert on the chemistry of these products but have done a bit of timber finishing on floors and furniture, I used a water based clear finish once and never again. It is defiantly not as resilient.

That 2 part aerosol in a single can looks like it would be worth ago on a test piece.

And as oscar points out the biggest problem no matter what product you use is dust, almost need a clean room to get a good finish. It could be that AUS is just a dusty place though.

koan

[dssc]

I think i'll just go with what i used already,since it worked o.k.,i don't
won't to start trying something different and finding out it doesn't work.
I have a nice clean small room in the basement i'm using,it works good.

                                     thanks