Something I've been meaning to do ever since I've had my 350 was to get the correct license plate holders for the front. I've wondered whether many w116's out there have suffered the same fate as my 350 where the original plate holders have been lost or broken but rather than replaced, have had holes needlessly drilled into the bumper to screw the license plate onto. Seeing that 4 of the 5 w116's that have passed into my posession, have had their front bumpers mutilated in this way I reckon it might be a common thing but it need not be.
The original holders, part number A1168100614, cost me about $11AUD each. The only problem is that they didn't come with screws and as soon as I get a screw that fits I'll post the size.
Here's what happens when a mechanic comes up with a solution rather than buying two $11 parts
(http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/3080/imgp4907mediumix1.jpg)
Another example of needless drilling
(http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/5933/imgp4908mediummh4.jpg)
Here's what the original correct holders look like
(http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/6144/imgp4905mediumaz1.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
And here's how the original holders fit. The smaller part of the holder goes into the "keyhole" of the bumper and slides along. The license plate sits against the larger section of the holder and a screw goes through the plate into the brass coloured threaded section. License plate and holder become clamped onto the bumper.
Don't know whether I'm a minority here but if you're missing the holders and are on the verge of making your own mount, do yourself a favour and buy the real thing and save your bumper.
(http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/4690/imgp4914mediumqi6.jpg)
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how lazy are these dumbasses?
ive never seen holes drilled before Oscar,
that is poor form...
all the 116s weve had had some/most of the plate holders, only problem is the threaded section seems to break loose and spin freely so you cant use them!
Don't know how concerned you are about having your plates stolen (big in Melbourne for for petrol drive offs) but I came up an arrangement to deter theft.
A piece of 2 mm thick stainless steel sheet same size of the number plate with a couple of suitably positioned holes to suit the key hole slots in the bumper. Use the number plate as a template and drill holes around the edge of the stainless steel sheet for pop rivets. Mount the stainless sheet to the bumper using the proper mounts (oscar pics) with Locktite and stainless steel screws then pop rivet the number plate on.
This lets the plate sit central on the bumper rather than hanging below it.
My old plate had a couple holes drilled or butchered through the middle, obviously done by a partly trained monkey as they weren't even horizontal. Very attractive.
Did a similar thing on the back.
koan
You're right Pat. Screws were a machine thread and whilst the engineering shop that I wanted to go to to get the proper sizing nomenclature was closed today, I went to a Supercheap Auto and some kid was kind enough to open a few sealed packs of screws until we found one that fitted. I left 'em at work and can't remember the size but not hard to find something that fits. I got stainless steel bolts in the end.
Quote from: nathan on 10 October 2008, 09:01 PM
how lazy are these dumbasses?
For the 350 it all started when my dad stopped going to a delaer for services during the early 1990's and started using Supermarket oil, neglecting services and visiting village mechanics when something did go wrong. The same douchebag that screwed the iron bar to the bumper also "refurbished" the license plates with paint and a brush to bring them back to life. ::) ::)
This is a pic not long after I got the car nearly 5 years ago. Hmmm, an impressionistic take of a license plate. ;D
(http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/2267/dscf0002mediumic1.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
koan, not a bad idea. Another advantage of a custom backing plate - for my State the positioning between the 4 holes that are predrilled into the current front plate do not lend themselves to a centrally aligned fitment of the license plate. Either a distant hole at one end and a closer to the centre hole on the other end is required to use these license holders in the first instance, or, two further custom holes can be drilled in the license plate to make sure the holders position the plate centrally. A backing plate with custom holes for the plate holders would allow the factory holes of the license plate to be used for attachment to the backing plate.
does one know where i can find those plate holders for the key slots?
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I got mine from the MB Classic center...they have them in stock.
Great thank you theyll be here in a week!
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It was easy to find the correct screws off one of those racks in an auto shop but I bought a few different packets and be damned if I can remember which one I used. Metric thread, M8 or M10. I've forgotten.
I think it's M4 from memory. I would use Pan-Head SS machine screws with some anti-seize.
Tim
M4 ?? Hmmmm, I better check tomorrow in case I'm telling furphys. I remember not being able to get SS screws so I had to use shiny ones ::) just not sure if they're zinced or what but I'll check
M6
we have plenty of different size screws at the our shop
How about M5 ::)
Unfortunately, the packet of screws I did use I couldn't find, but the screws are phillips head and about 15mm long and since they are the same pitch as the SS ones below I'm guessing they're M5.
I'm not good at reading codes on screw packets but I assume these are machine thread 5mm and 25mm long (5x25). I didn't use these ones because I thought they were a bit too long and I preferred a phillips head rather than hex but otherwise they screw in just fine.
(http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/6376/10012009610mediumoz0.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
That's it oscar, they are 5mm, found my old mounts today and measured them.
Thought they were much smaller, 4mm or so, you were close 13B
I have some countersunk head 5mm screws with hex (allen) key holes, pretty sure they are s/steel. Happy to post a few out if anyone can use them.
koan
Bunnings will have a huge range of stainless steel 'bolts' - a screw has a tapered section and will fix into the material due to the increased diameter / depth of thread. Bolts fix with a nut.
I recommend stainless for obvious reasons.
Get a few packs of M4 and M5 bolts some washers and nuts to suit. There are many applications for them with your W116.
Being European, all bolts in the car are Metric and standard engineering thread. M2, M3, M4 etc. You can also get high tensile nuts and bolts for spares as well.
AFAIK, a set screw, or a machine screw is a "bolt" that has thread all the way to the head. A "bolt" has the upper section of shank smooth, with no thread. ;)
Tim
Quote from: TJ 450 on 12 January 2009, 11:51 PM
AFAIK, a set screw, or a machine screw is a "bolt" that has thread all the way to the head. A "bolt" has the upper section of shank smooth, with no thread. ;)
Never worked out what's a screw and what's a bolt, or what the proper term is for a head that takes an allen key is, a hex bolt?
Just to confuse things what you call a machine screw I call a bolt and what you call a bolt I call a shoulder bolt.
But I don't call a shovel a spade ;)
koan
Just to make it worse, when you order fasteners from MB, anything with threads on it seems to be called a 'screw' whether its a self tapper, a bolt, a machine screw, or even an allen head fastner. As far as they are concerned, 'screw' includes the pseudo-threaded plastic thingys used to secure interior trim on the 90's benzes.
Quotewhat the proper term is for a head that takes an allen key is, a hex bolt?
Cap-heads are what I call them.
"Can I have a dozen M6 by 25mm SS cap-heads thanks?" I go to boltmasters in Tullamarine.
I.
Quote from: 13B on 13 January 2009, 07:13 AM
Quotewhat the proper term is for a head that takes an allen key is, a hex bolt?
Cap-heads are what I call them.
"Can I have a dozen M6 by 25mm SS cap-heads thanks?" I go to boltmasters in Tullamarine.
I.
Interesting, they are normally referred to as "socket head", but "cap head" sounds fair enough. Be sure not to say "cup head" though. ;D 8)
Tim
got mine all set up, took me a while to find a METAL number plate tray not plastic painted chrome
i think i looks good
(//)