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AC Expansion valve

Started by flutes, 25 April 2010, 09:57 PM

flutes

Hemmersam it now looks like a big black blob from outer space.

Koan that is correct - the back side of it has some sort of adhesive and sticks straight onto the floor.  You apply it using a small hard roller and heating it to make it easier to work with.  I am going to put the old insulation back over it as well - can't hurt!
Matt
1977 450SEL

koan

Quote from: Major Tom on 26 April 2010, 05:42 PM
without the instrument cluster plugged in, the battery does not charge.

Sort of, that's why I was non committal with a may/may not.

The ignition warming lamp (battery symbol) filament supplies the field current for initial excitation.  Once the alternator starts producing current it's self exciting and the externally supplied field current is not required. Without the cluster there is no initial excitation. That's the theory anyway.

In practice there's usually sufficient magnetism in the rotor to start the process with out the external field excitation when the engines revs go over two or three thousand, once it starts generating it continues when revs drop back.

koan
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

Big_Richard

Quote from: koan on 26 April 2010, 10:01 PM
Quote from: Major Tom on 26 April 2010, 05:42 PM
without the instrument cluster plugged in, the battery does not charge.

Sort of, that's why I was non committal with a may/may not.

The ignition warming lamp (battery symbol) filament supplies the field current for initial excitation.  Once the alternator starts producing current it's self exciting and the externally supplied field current is not required. Without the cluster there is no initial excitation. That's the theory anyway.

In practice there's usually sufficient magnetism in the rotor to start the process with out the external field excitation when the engines revs go over two or three thousand, once it starts generating it continues when revs drop back.

koan


I didn't bother with the theory, i just checked with a multimeter, without the instrument cluster/blue lead connected there was under 12v at the battery. with it plugged in, there was the usual 13.8v at idle. I didnt leave it running long enough to find out if that was going to change ;)

TJ 450

That could explain why I was having charging problems a while back. The bulb holder contacts were dodgy. I did have a loose termional though.

Sorry about the "kinda-sorta-off-topic-ness". 8)

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

koan

Quote from: TJ 450 on 27 April 2010, 10:23 AM
Sorry about the "kinda-sorta-off-topic-ness". 8)

As frequently happens the original topic on expansion valve has gone in to unrelated areas, floor insulation, rust converters and battery charging.

koan
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

oscar

Quote from: koan on 27 April 2010, 11:49 AM
Quote from: TJ 450 on 27 April 2010, 10:23 AM
Sorry about the "kinda-sorta-off-topic-ness". 8)

As frequently happens the original topic on expansion valve has gone in to unrelated areas, floor insulation, rust converters and battery charging.

koan

Which leads me to mention my steering box  :D 

Back to the charging for a moment, that's some significant info.  I remember reading something yonks ago about what's been said but it never sunk in.  A while back I did a new battery, alternator, external voltage regulator and still couldn't get 13.8V.  It just hangs over 12.  Pulling the cluster and checking contacts/replacing bulbs might do the trick.

Quote from: flutes on 26 April 2010, 12:46 AM
I'm going to wrap that other fitting in tape as well, as after driving for a while it's starting to feel damp.

Is that the blue braided line you're talking about flutes & KenM?  I replaced one once in the 350 and didn't notice any tar on the old one or the replacement from a wreck.  Only the expansion valve was covered.  Considering how hard it is to swing a spanner to get that hose onto the expansion valve I'd leave it uncovered.
1973 350SE, my first & fave

flutes

Off topic conversations make this forum what it is - I wouldn't want it any other way.

Oscar - the blue braided line is rubber or something and doesn't seem to need to be wrapped - it's all the metal fittings that are the problem, the brass one in the photo there is what I was talking about.  That is now covered by a great gob of tar tape.

The tape does peel off without too much difficulty - it's more a problem of access than adhesion.

What's dawned on me after driving today is that I'm probably going to have to wrap each of those spaghetti lines of metal tubing - as they're all getting very, very cold and are damp to the touch.  Bugger.
Matt
1977 450SEL

koan

Quote from: flutes on 27 April 2010, 11:31 PM
Off topic conversations make this forum what it is - I wouldn't want it any other way.

Have to agree, that's just the way it is, I like it that way.

Anything up to the expansion valve isn't expanding so it wont be cooling so that rubber/whatever line doesn't need insulation. 

koan
Boogity, Boogity, Boogity, Amen!

TJ 450

Quote from: flutes on 27 April 2010, 11:31 PM
Off topic conversations make this forum what it is - I wouldn't want it any other way.
It certainly makes things interesting and that's got to be a positive.

Tim
1976 450SEL 6.9 1432
1969 300SEL 6.3 1394
2003 ML500

Luke1

Flutes, try Miracle Paint, purchased it from Bill Hirsch Automotive in New Jersey.  This paint (comes in silver or black) is some of the best stuff I have ever used for curing rust permanently.  I've used it on my entire floor pans, under the car, muffler, anywhere I had rust, and you can paint over it if need be.  I've also used fiberglass to help reinforce it, amazing stuff.  It is moisture and gas resistance, really good stuff, if it wasn't, I wouldn't be using it.  '77 280SE

flutes

Thanks Luke - I'll see if I can source that...

Cheers,
Matt.
Matt
1977 450SEL

flutes

Update: a supplier for Bill Hirsch Miracle Paint in Sydney is:

John Pisani at Classic British & German / Classic Dash
169 Bellevue Parade
Carlton, Sydney, NSW 2218
Phone 2 9546 7593
Fax    2  9547 3418
e-mail- [email protected]

Interestingly, they also do dash refurbishments for about $800 for a w116.  John is restoring a w108, the refurbed dash he had looked great.  They're a full trim shop too - anyone used them?
Matt
1977 450SEL

KenM

Sounds like an interesting and potentially very handy find there Matt, I've never heard of them but could certainly use their services one day, makes me wonder whether it would be handy having a suppliers link or page on this forum, as they do on the MBCNSW forum for example. I'm sure between us there must be dozens of such contacts that could benefit someone in need. Or is there one already? I'm not super computer literate unfortunately.

Ken

flutes

Ah yes - there is the Suppliers post in the shop forum.  Thanks for reminding me Ken - I'd forgotten.  I'll post a note there.
Matt
1977 450SEL

KenM

Yep, found it, it's been there all along hasn't it? I'm a bit slow but worth waiting for (mostly).

???