AC Expansion valve

[flutes]

After a couple of week break (been overseas) I'm covering the expansion valve with tar tape today.  This is not an easy job.

There were some fittings with the tape, but not the expansion valve.  I guess it was replaced at some point and not re-covered.  The tape that was there wasn't giving a good seal anyway so I've pulled it off.

As Ken/Tim have said, access to this is very difficult.  The expansion valve seems to be right up against the round ducting, which will make it difficult to cover.  I can barely get my hands in there anyway.

Breaking for lunch/sanity and will update again.

[koan]

I've pulled the round corrugated ducting off to work in that area but its a bit a of a challenge getting it back on. Access through the instrument cluster hole makes work easier.

koan

[flutes]

So expansion valve has no been covered.  Off for a drive but it's quite dry/cool in Sydney today so I"m not sure I'll be able to determine whether I've fixed the problem or not.  There was another fitting just up and behind the valve that was partially and poorly covered - this is possibly the compensating line but I'm really not sure.  Have left that uninsulated for the time being.  You can see the fitting I'm talking about in this shot.




The expansion valve is back up behind it to the left - you can see the rubber hose that goes into it and the start of the tar tape.  Any suggestions for what to do with this other fitting?  Cover it with tape or leave it?

Thanks,
Matt.

[flutes]

I thought about that Koan but was able to get the round ducting off (which made things easier) - I haven't taken an instrument cluster out before and didn't want to risk not having the car drivable tomorrow by not being able to get the gauges back on.

[flutes]

By the way does everyone have this little mess of tubing in their cars?  It looks decidedly non-original to me.

[Big_Richard]

that mess of tube is from the expansion valve (TX valve)

chances are the TX valve has been replaced at some stage so in essence, you are correct in assuming its not original.

From the factory it would of been arranged in a much tidier fashion and all evaporator external plumbing would of been wrapped in tar tape.

If it left the factory looking like it did in that picture, the technician would of been taken outside and shot in the back of his head and thrown in a rubbish pile.

[flutes]

I'd be quite happy to shoot whoever did that.

I'm going to wrap that other fitting in tape as well, as after driving for a while it's starting to feel damp.

[KenM]

Hey Matt, you're right, you will need to wrap that pipe as it is the suction line back to the compressor, so it will sweat badly when running. Just slather the stuff in there mate, you can't go wrong...

Cheers,

[flutes]

Wrapped it is and all the trimming is back on.  Now I can get out the wire attachment for the drill and clean up the floor pan.  Still looking for rust converter that isn't White Knight brand.  The Dynamat should have arrived at my office last week so soon this will all be finished!

[KenM]

I'll be interested to see what you think of the dynamat Matt, I'm toying with the idea of putting a fair bit of it into my car, it's supposed to be pretty good stuff so it will be good to hear of your experience.

Ken

[flutes]

I bought one of these Link packs so that should be enough to do the front and back floor pans.  It has nine sheets of 457mm x 812mm matting.  After reading up a lot on this stiff online I'm convinced it is the best product out there and have high expectations!

Should be two weeks and I'll have it installed - will keep you posted.

[TJ 450]

For rust converter, you could use Ranex (phosphoric acid), though you would have to paint it as soon as the conversion has occured.

I haven't had much luck with the priming and sealing rust converters, and White Knight products are not great.

Indeed, from what I have read/heard, Dynamat is the ultimate for acoustic/vibration control.

Tim

[Hemersam]

That looks like some kind of fungus from outer space. Make sure you don't begin to hear any weird noises from the area. 
Hemersam

[koan]

I bought one of these Link packs so that should be enough to do the front and back floor pans.

Assume the new insulation goes straight on the floor, are you putting the existing insulation back in on top?

BTW there's no problem running without the instrument cluster but the oil pressure line needs to be blocked and battery may or may not charge.

koan

[Big_Richard]

without the instrument cluster plugged in, the battery does not charge.

I tried this recently, and if you forget to plug in the blue spade connector it still doesn't charge